Kizashi Club

bootymac wrote:So far only the RHS shock is squeeking but I guess our wet and humid climate accelerating the issue.

Did you have to recreate the issue for the dealer?

It usually starts with one side and then the other will go out some short time later. They really need to be replaced together at the same time. I waited a bit until I was very sure the rear shocks were goners and that it was very likely both of them. I then took it into the closest former dealer (now Authorized Suzuki Service Dealer) and showed them the TSB found on this forum. The service rep then called a technician who drove my car as I sat in the passenger seat. He drove it few a few blocks around the dealership where there were speed bumps. It creaked because of the failed rear shocks. The tech then agreed that the rear shocks were goners and very likely caused by the TSB issue. We went back to the Service rep and the tech told him that it's the TSB issue. The Service rep then told me they'll order the parts from the warehouse and it will be in the next day. Everything was covered by warranty, but I did not get a loaner car.

If you can't get the car creaking at every speed bump, maybe wait a few weeks. It will get worse and rapidly so. However, if you are covered by warranty and it's getting close to expiring, take it in sooner.

bootymac wrote:Did you have to recreate the issue for the dealer?

I didn't. They took my word for it and when they pulled the first one of (a very easy task for them w/ lift and air tools), they quickly saw the corrosion described in the TSB and went on their way finishing the job.

bootymac wrote:I've also just realized that the TSB only applies within the warranty period. Seeing how little I drive my Kizashi, my warranty will likely expire by the time my shocks actually fail. I figure I should do something sooner rather than getting potentially screwed in the future.

If you're still under warranty and don't mind the dealership touching your car, I'd let them do it. The tool they used to keep the springs compressed while undoing the lower shock bolt seems like it would be necessary to keep the springs from popping the whole bottom assembly off with force (possibly dangerous force).

KuroNekko wrote:On the topic of these bump stoppers and shocks, it was discussed in another thread that German suspension maker KW makes a suspension kit for the Kizashi.

Great to know KW makes a suspension kit. I wonder if it will still work with the rear sway bar?

I never realized how at home polished lip wheels are on an SLS. Very cool.

bootymac wrote:It appears that my Kizashi may already have failed shocks with less than 8k miles. I started noticing creaking from the rear as I go over bumps. Sounds like "ee err" like an old bed during physical activities.

The funny thing is, that's what I thought too. Even with the new shocks and revised boots it's still there. Probably the rear sway bar bushings squeaking instead--at least that's what I'm guessing ours might be.

redmed wrote:

murcod wrote:Some drainage grooves cut into the top of the old design bumpstop and silastic type sealant on the top of the shock shaft might be a cheap DIY solution.....

I was just thinking about this, $70 for a couple pieces of plastic. JEEZZZZ! When you have perfectly good bumper stops, only the hole in them is too large and lets moisture in. What if I took a couple pieces of rubber (from a inner tube) cut them into a circle just large enough to cover the top of the existing bumper stops and made a small hole for the shock shaft in them? Would the rubber last very long? How much travel do the bumper stops do? If none, this might just work to keep the water out.

murcod, your idea of sealant is good but I wonder how well the sealant would bond to the plastic of the bumper stops. The sealant might come loose and not provide a moisture seal anymore. The weight of the car would hold the rubber tight against the bumper stops.

What about a couple small drainage holes drilled at a angle 1/4 inch below the top of the bumper stop drilled to 1/8 inch below the top in the inside of bumper stop?

What do you guys think?

At one point, I thought that maybe drilling in the right area to provide good drainage may be a solution. But then when you think of the labor involved in just getting to the stop to 'try' a solution, it's just better to get the part engineered for the job.

Ronzuki wrote:

bootymac wrote:Did you have to recreate the issue for the dealer?

I didn't. They took my word for it and when they pulled the first one of (a very easy task for them w/ lift and air tools), they quickly saw the corrosion described in the TSB and went on their way finishing the job.

That's what mine did too. They saw the bottom of the shock and knew just from that. They ordered the parts and let me know when they were in.

I apologize if this has already been asked. This is a very long thread. I had leaky rear shocks a year and a half ago in my 2010 and purchased a new pair and paid my mechanic to replace them. This was before the TSB. Do I have any recourse in these situations?

sschriber wrote:I apologize if this has already been asked. This is a very long thread. I had leaky rear shocks a year and a half ago in my 2010 and purchased a new pair and paid my mechanic to replace them. This was before the TSB. Do I have any recourse in these situations?

I know owners can be reimbursed for fixing recalled issues out of pocket, but I don't think the same applies to a service bulletin. Someone correct me if I'm wrong

Just installed new bumper stops @ 42k miles. Shocks still good. Just slight hints of rust I was able to remove with some Never Dull.
Rarely driven in rain or snow.

redmed wrote:Just installed new bumper stops @ 42k miles. Shocks still good. Just slight hints of rust I was able to remove with some Never Dull.
Rarely driven in rain or snow.

Great to hear! How bad was the install? (assuming you did it yourself)