Kizashi Club

Performed the first oil change on the Kiz last night at 2037 miles. Not the worst car to do an oil change on, and certainly not the easiest either. Put the car up on the ramps and then removed the engine cover (pulls off no tools req'd), the exhaust manifold heat shield (3 10mm bolts) and the lower plastic underbody cover on the passenger side ( 5 or 6 10mm bolts). Removed the oil fill cap and the dip stick. Removed 14mm drain plug. Used a cap style oil filter wrench from NAPA I use on our SX4 to remove the OE filter from above as opposed to underneath like the SX4. Cracked the filter and SLOWLY started to spin it off a little bit to give it time to drain (waiting for the flood to go everywhere). To my surprise it wasn't bad at all. Then spun it off and quickly turned it open side up to minimize anything else from emptying out of the filter. a very small amount ran down on a bracket that was easily wiped of from underneath. Now that I now where the oil wants to go, I can place a small oil towel folded up on top of that bracket to catch what dribbles out. This would be done from underneath the vehicle. It's very tight where the filter resides and there's no real room to wrap alot of rags or anything around the filter. Besides, it's right next to the hot exhaust down pipe, so care must be taken with rags and towels as to not start a fire. There's also a small heat shield to protect the oil filter from the exhaust.
Spun a new OE filter on, put the plug back in and filled it up w/ Mobil 1 Full Syn 5W-30.

Overall not as bad as I thought it was going to be, and, not as messy as the SX4. Filters are the same as the SX4 which is nice for me keeping a supply of Suzuki filters on hand and if I run out of those, the local NAPA stocks their gold filters for the cars as well. BTW, the NAPA wrench fits bothe the Suzuki filter and the NAPA filters (O.D.s are slightly different between the 2).

I've done 3 changed on my Kizzi (12k miles on her) and I've never removed the exhaust manifold... Does that help?

I use OEM or Mobile 1 filters on Suzuki's. I used a Bosche once and it the engine felt like it needed a change at 3k miles.

Changed the rear diff at 4k miles and switched it over to Mobile 1 Synthetic, EZ PZ, DO NOT JACK IT UP! It needs to stay level.

Helped with the MPG +1. Oil was very dirty.

I removed the exh manifold heat shield simply because it's flimsy and constructed like a waffle. I didn't want to flatten or deform it in any way with my arm shoved down in there to work the oil filters on and off. Having it off also provided a little more visibility from above as to what was going on below with the oil from the filter draining into the pan. More precationary than anything.

Can't jack the rear end up for the rear diff fluid change? That's gonna be a problem....I won't fit under there!

yea she's got to be level because when the level is right it will dribble back out the hole your adding it into.

It shouldn't cost too much to have a shop do it. 2 quarts of 75w-90 is what you need. It only uses 1.3 of them.

Ronzuki wrote:Performed the first oil change on the Kiz last night at 2037 miles. Not the worst car to do an oil change on, and certainly not the easiest either. Put the car up on the ramps and then removed the engine cover (pulls off no tools req'd), the exhaust manifold heat shield (3 10mm bolts) and the lower plastic underbody cover on the passenger side ( 5 or 6 10mm bolts). Removed the oil fill cap and the dip stick. Removed 14mm drain plug. Used a cap style oil filter wrench from NAPA I use on our SX4 to remove the OE filter from above as opposed to underneath like the SX4. Cracked the filter and SLOWLY started to spin it off a little bit to give it time to drain (waiting for the flood to go everywhere). To my surprise it wasn't bad at all. Then spun it off and quickly turned it open side up to minimize anything else from emptying out of the filter. a very small amount ran down on a bracket that was easily wiped of from underneath. Now that I now where the oil wants to go, I can place a small oil towel folded up on top of that bracket to catch what dribbles out. This would be done from underneath the vehicle. It's very tight where the filter resides and there's no real room to wrap alot of rags or anything around the filter. Besides, it's right next to the hot exhaust down pipe, so care must be taken with rags and towels as to not start a fire. There's also a small heat shield to protect the oil filter from the exhaust.
Spun a new OE filter on, put the plug back in and filled it up w/ Mobil 1 Full Syn 5W-30.

Overall not as bad as I thought it was going to be, and, not as messy as the SX4. Filters are the same as the SX4 which is nice for me keeping a supply of Suzuki filters on hand and if I run out of those, the local NAPA stocks their gold filters for the cars as well. BTW, the NAPA wrench fits bothe the Suzuki filter and the NAPA filters (O.D.s are slightly different between the 2).

Interesting.

When I did my first oil change, I took my time. It wasn't as bad as I expected, but I had already read all the tips and experiences posted Harder than any other car I had, but doable.

I always tighten my oil filters by hand only, works fine and you can loosen it by hand for next change. I had to use a wrench for the initial one though. I had a strap rubber wrench that worked fine. Hopefully won't need it again.
I am using still using dino oil with purolator pure one filter.

I got a little tip for all Kizashi owners. Buy ramps. Seriously this is my first set. You'd think I would have owned a set before now... Always used jack stands and my 4x4's were always tall enough to slide under without anything...

After draining the oil (4th change) for 25mins, started to twist off the filter... Nothing... Little more... Nothing, not even a dribble. Little scared the filter bypass may be clogged now. Get the filter off and it's CLEAN like not used CLEAN. Pop it in the vise and cut it in half with the sawzall. It's used.

Anyways the tip, get ramps. Not sure if the angle of the car on ramps permits the oil to drain down into the engine or what but it was nice to not have to clean the block and exhaust in such a tight place.

I had to get ramps because I am now disabled and since I do my own work I had to work around my new disability. Treat your knee's well my friends, treat them well.

xwiredtva wrote:I got a little tip for all Kizashi owners. Buy ramps. Seriously this is my first set. You'd think I would have owned a set before now... Always used jack stands and my 4x4's were always tall enough to slide under without anything...

After draining the oil (4th change) for 25mins, started to twist off the filter... Nothing... Little more... Nothing, not even a dribble. Little scared the filter bypass may be clogged now. Get the filter off and it's CLEAN like not used CLEAN. Pop it in the vise and cut it in half with the sawzall. It's used.

Anyways the tip, get ramps. Not sure if the angle of the car on ramps permits the oil to drain down into the engine or what but it was nice to not have to clean the block and exhaust in such a tight place.

I had to get ramps because I am now disabled and since I do my own work I had to work around my new disability. Treat your knee's well my friends, treat them well.

Thanks for the tips. I bought a set of ramps years ago... Oner of the best investments made in car care so far! They are invaluable.

Sorry, didn't mention the ramps in the write-up.... it's pretty much a foregone conclusion that they are required I guess, nothing will fit under the car w/o them (certainly not me or my drain pan). Thanks.