Try really hammering corners in both modes; I suggest, if properly hammered, the AWD mode will:
-enhance stability through the middle of corners
-allow higher exit speed.
Our specialized torque-vectoring AWD Kizashis demand they be run AWD.
Because they go faster.......
AWD MODE
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WESHOOT2 wrote:Try really hammering corners in both modes; I suggest, if properly hammered, the AWD mode will:
-enhance stability through the middle of corners
-allow higher exit speed.
Our specialized torque-vectoring AWD Kizashis demand they be run AWD.
Because they go faster.......
But doesn't the awd only kick in if you loose front traction only? I want to understand why running in awd all the time like a Subaru is better. and doesn't this do wear and tear more on those awd parts.. Driving home last night was a good test in that storm. it did feel more planted firm on the road..
Here's info pertaining to the Kizashi's i-AWD directly from Suzuki themselves:pakizzie2015 wrote: But doesn't the awd only kick in if you loose front traction only? I want to understand why running in awd all the time like a Subaru is better. and doesn't this do wear and tear more on those awd parts.. Driving home last night was a good test in that storm. it did feel more planted firm on the road..
Kizashi - The Kizashi’s advanced i-AWD™ system with i-VSP activates via a dash-mounted switch. Upon acceleration, the sophisticated system distributes the optimum amount of torque for a smooth start and sure-footed acceleration. As road conditions change, the proper amount of torque distributed between the front and rear wheels is dependent upon several conditions including wheel slippage and throttle input.
The Intelligent Vehicle Stability Program* (i-VSP) is included on all AWD-equipped Kizashi sport sedans. The i-VSP system constantly evaluates vehicle dynamics to control steering torque assist and front / rear traction distribution. In the event of oversteer, where the rear wheels have less traction than the front, the system transfers driving force from rear to front to help reduce the rear wheels’ tendency to slip. In the event of understeer, where the rear tires have more traction than the front, the AWD system transfers driving force from front to rear, enhancing the driving experience.
“*I-VSP, which should remain on when driving except when freeing the vehicle from mud or snow, cannot prevent accidents due to abrupt steering, carelessness, or dangerous driving techniques. Always drive safely. i-AWD™ cannot be relied upon to prevent accidents due to abrupt steering, carelessness, or dangerous driving techniques.
More info on the i-AWD system from another site:
i-AWD system
Power to the rear wheels is delivered via the i-AWD controller, which constantly monitors driver input and vehicle dynamic conditions to deliver the most efficient division of power.
The key delivery component is an electronically controlled wet-type multi-plate clutch coupling, in which the degree of magnetic clutch action is modulated to provide optimum traction.
The coupling is regulated with an electrical current alternating between the two and all-wheel drive modes, based on data supplied by the array of sensors including wheel, steering wheel, yaw and lateral G.
In a first for Suzuki, the transfer case features a force-fed internal lubrication system to ensure improved durability.
The AWD system can be engaged on the fly by pressing the dash-mounted switch.
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
Doesn't it say somewhere in the manual that you should run the AWD for a few miles once a month, so everything stays lubricated?
Anyways, I've noticed that the steering gets a little heavier when I'm in AWD mode. I was riding around in AWD mode all the time for a while, and it did seem like my Kizashi wanted to pull out of corners a little earlier. I tend to have major understeer while in a hard corner, in either 2WD or AWD. However, I've never really been able to experience torque steer in the Kizashi in 2WD mode, like I could in my Optima. And I've only barely been able to get it to oversteer in a hard turn a few times in AWD mode. The tires on my Kizashi are too sticky, and she needs MO POWA!!!!
Anyways, I've noticed that the steering gets a little heavier when I'm in AWD mode. I was riding around in AWD mode all the time for a while, and it did seem like my Kizashi wanted to pull out of corners a little earlier. I tend to have major understeer while in a hard corner, in either 2WD or AWD. However, I've never really been able to experience torque steer in the Kizashi in 2WD mode, like I could in my Optima. And I've only barely been able to get it to oversteer in a hard turn a few times in AWD mode. The tires on my Kizashi are too sticky, and she needs MO POWA!!!!
My Cars (Their Names)
'93 Ford Escort (Jorge - Prior)
'06 Kia Optima EX (Sakuya - Prior)
'11 Suzuki Kizashi SE AWD (Azumi)
'09 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Base 5MT(Akari - Prior)
'11 Chevy Cruze Eco 6MT (Erika - Prior)
'12 Suzuki Kizashi Sport SLS AWD (Kitsune)
'93 Ford Escort (Jorge - Prior)
'06 Kia Optima EX (Sakuya - Prior)
'11 Suzuki Kizashi SE AWD (Azumi)
'09 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Base 5MT(Akari - Prior)
'11 Chevy Cruze Eco 6MT (Erika - Prior)
'12 Suzuki Kizashi Sport SLS AWD (Kitsune)
I, too, noticed that slightly 'heavier' feel when I first tried toggling, but since I drive like an anti-social idiot I've since kept mine in AWD allatime....
The light wheel-tire package I installed allowed huge gains in zip.
("Understeer" = pump your tire pressure up, and run the fronts 2--4 PSI higher than the rears.)
The light wheel-tire package I installed allowed huge gains in zip.
("Understeer" = pump your tire pressure up, and run the fronts 2--4 PSI higher than the rears.)
I used to usually leave AWD off, to "be mor fuel efficient and minimize wear" till someone on the forums mentioned that we should use it since we paid for it. I aslo think it'd be too late to toggle it on when you actually need it at that moment. So any sign of wet road, hill etc, I leave it on. Pretty much left it on this whole winter.
2011 Kizash SLS AWD
The Kizashi already has 2 CVT coolers. One in the radiator, and one standalone. I've measured before and the standalone CVT cooler in front of the radiator is approximately 24" x 3". It sits almost entirely in the opening of the lower grill section, so cooling airflow should be excellent.
RRM appears to just be selling their standard 8.5" x 11" CVT cooler bundle which I do not believe will perform noticeably better than the factory setup. For other brands and models that lack an OEM second standalone cooler, it may be more worthwhile.
RRM appears to just be selling their standard 8.5" x 11" CVT cooler bundle which I do not believe will perform noticeably better than the factory setup. For other brands and models that lack an OEM second standalone cooler, it may be more worthwhile.
KuroNekko wrote:As for cooling, the Kizashi features a CVT cooler with its own dedicated radiator but RRM sells an aftermarket CVT cooler. I don't know of anyone on this forum who has installed it, but RRM promises this keeps the CVT cooler in more demanding use. I really can't comment on its efficacy given I don't even have a CVT in my Kizashi.
Here's the RRM CVT cooler:
http://roadracemotorsports.com/store/in ... cts_id=697
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well here we are the day before the trip to wildwood.. I can't make up my mind to take the kizashi or the G5... and as I thought it will be one of the hottest times going through philly in the 90's and no idea if there is going to be road construction (stop and go).. and the worries about over heating the cvt. UGH I am wanting to take it on a long drive from here.(3 hours), Should I leave it here safe and take the G5 or take the chance.