X2 - a buddy of mine used to be a salesman for them, he's with Mahle now, but I'll ask him for the specs.Woodie wrote:Wix is one of the top rated brands, they make a lot of the expensive name brand filters. I'm not familiar enough with their line of products to tell you if they make different levels of filters under their own name.
Which oil type
2011 Sport SLS with nav Black Pearl Metallic
Wix oil filters are highly regarded so you'll be fine.
While there have been discussions here about what oil filter is better than another, in reality, most are pretty good. Just stay away from the orange FRAM filters. Those have poor reputations due to cheap build quality.
While there have been discussions here about what oil filter is better than another, in reality, most are pretty good. Just stay away from the orange FRAM filters. Those have poor reputations due to cheap build quality.
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
Strange, the 14477 should've fit. Maybe the wrong filter was in the box?TimoJens1 wrote:I purchased the Purolator Synthetic Oil filter #PSL14477 for my 2010 Kizashi but I could not get it to screw onto my engine. I brought the filter to the local Napa and they did a cross check to see if any of the other filters that size would fit my car. They told me that the filter I had was incorrect. I looked online at Advance Auto website and it claims that the PSL14477 is an exact match for my car. I was forced to use a WIX Filter. I have never used one prior to this and I am wondering if it is a filter I can trust? How long will it last with the mobile one synthetic oil? Will this filters media tear, rip off, and/or become a hazard to my motor?
Wix is decent. Filtration efficiency probably isn't as high as the Pure One but at least the media won't tear

Do you know which model you bought? The 57145 is a standard filter while the 57145XP has a synthetic filter media.
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDe ... Part=57145
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDe ... rt=57145XP
Here's a breakdown of Wix's different filters

Not a whole lot of information but based on the links I posted, the normal Wix filter would be closest to OEM. The XP filters have a synthetic filter media similar to other premium aftermarket brands.murcod wrote:That's an interesting advert. What exactly are they claiming is different between the filters - flow rate, particle filtering size, something else? Which filter is OEM equivalent???
Here are the filtration efficiencies:
Wix standard: 2/20=6/20
- 50% efficient @ 6 microns
- 95% efficient @ 20 microns
Wix XP: B2=20
- I don't know how to read this
Edit: For comparison, the Purolator Classic is 97.5% efficient @ 20 microns and the PureOne is 99.9% efficient @ 20 microns.
Last edited by bootymac on Mon Jul 21, 2014 2:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I've used 6 of the PL14477 so far and they are a little hard to get on. It goes in a little and gets stuck. I have to unscrew it and tilt it up at an angle and it will go smoothly in.TimoJens1 wrote:I purchased the Purolator Synthetic Oil filter #PSL14477 for my 2010 Kizashi but I could not get it to screw onto my engine. I brought the filter to the local Napa and they did a cross check to see if any of the other filters that size would fit my car. They told me that the filter I had was incorrect. I looked online at Advance Auto website and it claims that the PSL14477 is an exact match for my car.
Kissy (my 2012 SLS Sport) is coming up to the first engine and CVT fluid change under my ownership and I have a couple of questions, if I may.
When I lived in Japan I got hooked on Idemitsu fuel and lubricants and to my mild shock, I see their oil and transmission fluids are available 'stateside nowadays. I was looing at using their IFG 3 5W-30 synthetic (https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/product/ifg-3-5w-30) which is API SP. However, the extract from the service manual that murcod was so kind enough to post says "Use only engine oil of SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM grade".
Being highly lubricant-ignorant, does the fact the Idemitsu oil's API SP mean I gotta keep shopping? Or will it be fine?
The second query regards the filter in the CVT. Should it be replaced at every change of the CVT's juice? What little research I have done so far implies the transaxle needs to be opened up to do that. With a frag over 103,000 miles on the clock and an uncertain service history, I have the personal impression that changing the filter is a good idea. How much of a pain is doing the job?
That's all for now and thanks in advance for any and all guidance.
bwob
(Bob Hall)
When I lived in Japan I got hooked on Idemitsu fuel and lubricants and to my mild shock, I see their oil and transmission fluids are available 'stateside nowadays. I was looing at using their IFG 3 5W-30 synthetic (https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/product/ifg-3-5w-30) which is API SP. However, the extract from the service manual that murcod was so kind enough to post says "Use only engine oil of SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM grade".
Being highly lubricant-ignorant, does the fact the Idemitsu oil's API SP mean I gotta keep shopping? Or will it be fine?
The second query regards the filter in the CVT. Should it be replaced at every change of the CVT's juice? What little research I have done so far implies the transaxle needs to be opened up to do that. With a frag over 103,000 miles on the clock and an uncertain service history, I have the personal impression that changing the filter is a good idea. How much of a pain is doing the job?
That's all for now and thanks in advance for any and all guidance.
bwob
(Bob Hall)
If you can't go fast with 90hp, 900hp won't help you