Service Start System??????
Change the main battery, it's past time. 535CCA isn't enough. That's roughly a 25% reduction in power...on a 5 year old battery (you faired better than most)....in a modern power hungry vehicle. So while you're cranking, the other electronics are being short-changed the power they to require. It sounds like you are experiencing the 'extended crank' syndrome as it's been referred to here, which is one of the early signs the battery is on its way out. As the battery weakens further, you gremlins will increase. Some of which will likely leave you stranded.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)You've definitely got some good life out of the stock battery. Ours recently just died all of a sudden, but it was preempted by an 'extended start' once. I'm actually glad everything happened the way it did since the car was at home. If it was at work buried under snow, it would have really sucked.
I went through a 'what's the best battery to get' crisis since I had to get something in asap. The best thing period is a braille (forgot the model number), but the Interstate top of the line agm seems quite nice too with a 4 yr non-prorated warranty and 800cca. It was in stock locally so it was what I ended up getting and it was an almost perfect replacement for the stock Delkor.
One thing I would try just for kicks is to put the fob up to the start switch and see if that works any better since that uses the RFID technology vs radio. If it's starting fine that way, then it could just be the fob battery. When's the last time you changed the fob battery?
I went through a 'what's the best battery to get' crisis since I had to get something in asap. The best thing period is a braille (forgot the model number), but the Interstate top of the line agm seems quite nice too with a 4 yr non-prorated warranty and 800cca. It was in stock locally so it was what I ended up getting and it was an almost perfect replacement for the stock Delkor.
One thing I would try just for kicks is to put the fob up to the start switch and see if that works any better since that uses the RFID technology vs radio. If it's starting fine that way, then it could just be the fob battery. When's the last time you changed the fob battery?
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thammer.el-ramahi
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 8:33 pm
Hey guys.
So this is really getting frustrating.
In addition, to initially checking the ACC and ACC2 fuses, I've now changed the key fob battery and the original battery in the car. I've also unplugged the cell phone charger that I had in the dash lighter, and the armrest lighter plus still does not work. The messages usually appears when the car is stationary and in neutral, and from there the frequency of the messages just increases until the car eventually does not crank when I push the start button. A second attempt starts the car without any problem.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will usually clear the problem, but it will reappear at some point in the near future.
Any other thoughts on what the problem might be?
Thanks
So this is really getting frustrating.
In addition, to initially checking the ACC and ACC2 fuses, I've now changed the key fob battery and the original battery in the car. I've also unplugged the cell phone charger that I had in the dash lighter, and the armrest lighter plus still does not work. The messages usually appears when the car is stationary and in neutral, and from there the frequency of the messages just increases until the car eventually does not crank when I push the start button. A second attempt starts the car without any problem.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will usually clear the problem, but it will reappear at some point in the near future.
Any other thoughts on what the problem might be?
Thanks
TER, was this a visual check or one completed with an ohm meter? Post #48 indicates a visual may not be conclusive as is the case with many of the "see through" type fuses.thammer.el-ramahi wrote:Hi guys,
I checked the ACC and ACC2 fuses and they are fine (not blown), the lighter plug in the center console has not been working though. T
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)-
thammer.el-ramahi
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 8:33 pm
Hi Ron,
I did use an Ohm meter when I did the checks.
T
I did use an Ohm meter when I did the checks.
T
OK then. There was mention of some relays earlier up in this thread. While I don't have the schematic and diag information at my finger-tips, those starter circuit relays would be my next suspects. Relay contacts are subject to carbon build-up, or even complete mechanical failure, over time and use. If there is monitoring of start circuit currents, and it sounded like there is, those buildups induce resistance in to the circuit lessening current flow and presumably would cause the fault warning you are seeing.
A similar problem exists with all year Suzuki Samurai's starting circuit designs (1986-1994). It's a common problem and the low-cost back yard fix is to add a relay (low current draw) between the key switch and the starter's solenoid (high current draw). With the stock design, starter solenoid current went directly through the key switch without an interposing relay as modern day vehicles have. After a while, the key switch's become fowled and there's not enough current flow through the device to properly energize the starter's solenoid. When this occurred many people believe the starter was the problem only to learn after spending a lot of money replacing it that it wasn't. With the addition of the relay in the circuit, I can easily replace the $6 relay in the Samurai when the issue re-appears and all is well saving an expensive, nearly impossible to find, ignition key switch from permanent destruction. Kizashis already have the relays, therefore, maybe try swapping out any that are 'start circuit' related. Relatively inexpensive all things considered.
Also, not knowing all the triggers for that warning message, fuel pressure is usually a pre-requisite to allowing firing of the engine and there are usually relays to run the fuel pump in order to build pressure and provide feedback that pressure has been achieved. It may crank, but not fire because of lack of fuel pressure. My EFI Samurai actually has a relay (one of the very few from the factory) for fuel pressure. Without that pressure relay closed, it'll crank till the battery dies, but it won't attempt to fire.
Good luck!
A similar problem exists with all year Suzuki Samurai's starting circuit designs (1986-1994). It's a common problem and the low-cost back yard fix is to add a relay (low current draw) between the key switch and the starter's solenoid (high current draw). With the stock design, starter solenoid current went directly through the key switch without an interposing relay as modern day vehicles have. After a while, the key switch's become fowled and there's not enough current flow through the device to properly energize the starter's solenoid. When this occurred many people believe the starter was the problem only to learn after spending a lot of money replacing it that it wasn't. With the addition of the relay in the circuit, I can easily replace the $6 relay in the Samurai when the issue re-appears and all is well saving an expensive, nearly impossible to find, ignition key switch from permanent destruction. Kizashis already have the relays, therefore, maybe try swapping out any that are 'start circuit' related. Relatively inexpensive all things considered.
Also, not knowing all the triggers for that warning message, fuel pressure is usually a pre-requisite to allowing firing of the engine and there are usually relays to run the fuel pump in order to build pressure and provide feedback that pressure has been achieved. It may crank, but not fire because of lack of fuel pressure. My EFI Samurai actually has a relay (one of the very few from the factory) for fuel pressure. Without that pressure relay closed, it'll crank till the battery dies, but it won't attempt to fire.
Good luck!
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)Guys had the same issue with my 2010 Kizsahi after plugging electric pump into the center cigarette lighter socket, my Kizashi was right hand drive and finally after searching for a while I located the fuse panel , it was on the passengers side against the exterior wall of the vehicle up beside the clove-box.
Fuse ACC2 was blown, a quick replacement with one of the spare 15 amp fuses in the engine bay fuse compartment and I was all good again.
Thanks Suzuki for the handy fuse removal tool, certainly made the job easier once I located the fuse panel.
I will certainly think twice before plugging anything else into this socket.
Fuse ACC2 was blown, a quick replacement with one of the spare 15 amp fuses in the engine bay fuse compartment and I was all good again.
Thanks Suzuki for the handy fuse removal tool, certainly made the job easier once I located the fuse panel.
I will certainly think twice before plugging anything else into this socket.
My wife on the move stuck the stick in the 12V power Outlet. As a result, radio went out and burned the inscription "Service Start System". Blown fuse ACC. While the fuse from ASS2 rearranged in the ACC. Radio earned. Tomorrow buy fuse and put it in ASS2.
Hi, guys
I've same problem (Service Start System) but when i put gear lever from D to N, the N doesn't show in display and Service Start System show's up. When i put to D it goes, I took it to dealer many times and they saying that they didn't found the problem, and I'm still getting this problem .
https://goo.gl/photos/9SpD9SFJ6yWoHdqA8
Check the link
I've same problem (Service Start System) but when i put gear lever from D to N, the N doesn't show in display and Service Start System show's up. When i put to D it goes, I took it to dealer many times and they saying that they didn't found the problem, and I'm still getting this problem
.https://goo.gl/photos/9SpD9SFJ6yWoHdqA8
Check the link
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Have you tried the door lock/unlock solution?Motasem wrote:Hi, guys
I've same problem (Service Start System) but when i put gear lever from D to N, the N doesn't show in display and Service Start System show's up. When i put to D it goes, I took it to dealer many times and they saying that they didn't found the problem, and I'm still getting this problem
https://goo.gl/photos/9SpD9SFJ6yWoHdqA8
Check the link
You get out of your car, lock the car, unlock the car, and try it again. For many, this was a solution to intermittent service start issues.