Share your Kizashi issues and repairs

[Speed_Racer]

2013 SLS - 2400 miles

So far....
- there seems to be vertical play in the hood (at the latch) when it's closed.

Mine has the same issue. I haven't looked into a solution yet.

[Woodie]

That's usually just rubber bumpers under the hood which need to be adjusted out a little.

[murcod]

That's usually just rubber bumpers under the hood which need to be adjusted out a little.

Yes, spot on. If they raise the hood too far (ie. above the guard height) then the hood latch will need adjusting.

Long cranking on starting might be the ECU requiring an update?

[Ronzuki]

- Rockford Fosgate volume jumping. Amp replaced under warranty.
- Excessive tire wear. Bad alignment from factory. Past 12k miles, not covered. re-aligned and corrected.
-Leather checking/cracking on steering wheel. Replaced under warranty.
-Belt tensioner recall. Replaced by dealer.

That's it. lovin' the car, lovin' the handling, lovin' how cheap it is for what it is.
34,343 miles.

[jj351]

Hello everyone . So good to hear everyone loves their Kizashi . i have got a SLS 2011 with 40k on the clock . The only issues I had
- paint chips in strange places . Suzuki said not their problem . Took it to a smash repairer and fixed them for under $150 .
- manual gearbox clunky and hard to shift when cold . Saw this mentioned on this block and endeavour to change the oil
- small squeak near rear suspension . Saw this problem in this block and now know what the problem is

No other problems to report . Currently using E10. And getting 8.4 around town . Still tight as a drum , same tyres and am absolutely in love with the car. Best car I ever bought....

[murcod]

- manual gearbox clunky and hard to shift when cold . Saw this mentioned on this block and endeavour to change the oil

If you're going to DIY then I can highly recommend Redline synthetic gear oils. I've used them in a few vehicles with problems changes and it makes a huge difference. I'm not sure what the dealer put in my Kizashi's box, but I still get a slight "snick" into 2nd every now and again. I'd love to change it myself for Redline but don't want to risk voiding the warranty.

[KuroNekko]

- manual gearbox clunky and hard to shift when cold . Saw this mentioned on this block and endeavour to change the oil

If you're going to DIY then I can highly recommend Redline synthetic gear oils. I've used them in a few vehicles with problems changes and it makes a huge difference. I'm not sure what the dealer put in my Kizashi's box, but I still get a slight "snick" into 2nd every now and again. I'd love to change it myself for Redline but don't want to risk voiding the warranty.

I am going to change the fluid soon. Car is over 17k miles. It's premature for a manual transmission oil change, but products like Redline are far better than factory fill. I can care less for warranty coverage especially since Suzuki is out of the US and there are no dealers near me. I don't even think synthetics void warranties in the US. I am not sure mainly because I don't care.

Also, I noticed that when I am in second gear and the rpm is around 2000, the transmission makes a noise. Hard to describe, but sounds like gear noise. Even more reason to switch to a quality synthetic.

I used to use Redline in my former Mazda. It's among the best manual transmission oils you can get as it's formulated specifically for transmissions instead of just being the same as gear oil for transfer cases, differentials, etc. Full synthetics will definitely improve cold weather performance.

I will do a write-up on it when I get around to it, not that changing manual transmission fluid is hard though.

[murcod]

I'll be interested to see how it goes. I might end up changing it myself, but we're on the tail end of Winter and I haven't had too many problems.

[KIZFAN2]

I also have the suspension squeak. Greased the mount but it did not do much. Repair will cost $500.

My car is gaining a new rattle/squeak daily. The build quality may look nice but everything that holds it together is poor.

[murcod]

Some potential sources of rattles in the front end (for anyone who's bored and wants something to fill a day in):

1. Windscreen washer tube can hit on the inside of the metal guard where it disappears down from the bonnet hinge. Not as noticeable with the bonnet raised due to the tube being attached to the hinged and shortening with the bonnet being raised.

2. Metal heatshield on the extractors/ exhaust manifold is a loose fit by design. If it moves too freely try distorting it using your hands to tension is a bit.

3. Plastic and foam wind deflector/ sealer next to the radiator can rattle and be loose. Access from inside engine bay.

4. Wheel arch plastic liners can rattle. Try cleaning around the plastic retainer clips and put a small dob of silicone sealer on each one, wait for it to dry before driving. Car will need to be jacked up with the wheel off to do this. Use safety stands!!!

5. Behind the front bumper is a large plastic impact absorbing piece. It's clipped onto the metal bar that runs between each "chassis rail" (down each side of the engine.) This is a loose fit and can both rattle on the metal it is attached to, and possibly on the back of the bumper. Try fitting some thin self adhesive EVA foam strategically to stop it rattling. You need the front bumper off to do this.

6. Check the three (?) screws are tight that hold the top of the front bumper bar/ grille assembly to the metal body above the radiator. Perhaps find large flat washers and spring washers and fit under each bolt to distribute the load evenly and prevent them working loose.

7. Under the cabin on bath sides are plastic guards running the length of the cabin. Check the tension of all the nuts- some might be loose from the factory.

Have fun!!! I'm enjoying a lot less rattles/ strange noises over bumps now.