Hey guys, so after all the reading here and research I'm finally going to give it a try my self and install my first radio! I'm going to be installing a Pioneer AppRadio2 but had a few questions for you guys out there.
First question is, how do I run the bluetooth mic? Should I do it through the driver side or passenger side? Do i need to take off the pillar panels behind the windshield? I read here somewhere that I can put the mic above where the sun glesses/light controls are, which I'm planning on doing.
Second question: Have any of you installed anything or messed around with the button panel on the left side (US) of the steering wheel, where the fog lights and traction control buttons are? I'm planning on installing the e-brake bypass there but I don't want some ugly ass button there. What I'm thinking is getting a simple push on and off button that can fit behind the OEM blank buttons that come installed, that way it looks OEM and as I push the original button it pushes back on the new button. ANy ideas on this?
I already have most of my parts, just waiting on the OEM faceplate to get here. I'll be updating and taking pictures as I go!
Installing Double Din, Brake Bypass Switch & Bluetooth Mic
Which model do you have? Sounds like the S or SE given you are installing an aftermarket system with bluetooth.
The best place to install the mic is where the factory mic is for the RF system; right by the sunglasses holder. You will see little speaker-cover looking panels there. That's where the factory mic is for the bluetooth system. I suggest putting it there given that's what it was made for.
Also, I am very confused about the "e-brake bypass". How is a button going to bypass a mechanical linkage hand brake? Our handbrakes (at least the one in my car) is that; a handbrake and is connected by linkage wire to the rear calipers. Not sure how a button will have any effect unless it's for a car with an electronic parking brake.
Fill me in if I am not getting something.
The best place to install the mic is where the factory mic is for the RF system; right by the sunglasses holder. You will see little speaker-cover looking panels there. That's where the factory mic is for the bluetooth system. I suggest putting it there given that's what it was made for.
Also, I am very confused about the "e-brake bypass". How is a button going to bypass a mechanical linkage hand brake? Our handbrakes (at least the one in my car) is that; a handbrake and is connected by linkage wire to the rear calipers. Not sure how a button will have any effect unless it's for a car with an electronic parking brake.
Fill me in if I am not getting something.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
He probably (at least I hope so as I want this badly) is talking about a button to fool the car into thinking the e-brake is on when it's not. The point being to defeat those moronic Daytime Running Lamps. Another brilliant idea Suzuki picked up from GM and their band of brain dead engineers (lawyers).
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
It would be to get the head unit to display video images (ie. play movies etc) while the vehicle is in motion. They're supposed to be wired up so the hand brake causes the display to go blank - to avoid accidents due to distraction!
David
So my stupid faceplate got lost by UPS! But as an update, thanks. KuroNekko, I did run the bluetooth mic up to the sunglasses holder and it was perfect and easy. I've never done this kind of stuff andi was surprised how easy it was to run. It was a bit scarry pulling down on the compartment, but it looks like the Kizashi has pretty good strong clips on most of their stuff, including the AC panel and radio. FYI if you are running the mic make sure you take 1 screw from behind the sunglasses holder, just push the holder down and you can see it.
Hey Woodie I actually was talking about what murcod described, but if you find an asnwerr to that I would also like to know!
As far as my dilema with the button, I actually googled it and it looks like I can order an oem "working" button for $35, I think Ill wait on that.
Hey Woodie I actually was talking about what murcod described, but if you find an asnwerr to that I would also like to know!
As far as my dilema with the button, I actually googled it and it looks like I can order an oem "working" button for $35, I think Ill wait on that.
You can just "forget" to hook up the handbrake wire to the correct location. Connecting it to +12V should do the trick as the handbrake wire gets earthed out with the brake on. When it's off the wire would be open circuit, so effectively you've have +12V sitting there (with no current flowing.)
(Not that I condone doing such a mod- mine is hooked up so no video is displayed while driving. Far too many distractions these days while driving!)
(Not that I condone doing such a mod- mine is hooked up so no video is displayed while driving. Far too many distractions these days while driving!)
David
I think the DRLs on Suzukis have to do with Canadian laws. In Canada, DRLs are required by law. Suzuki imported cars from Japan to North America so it makes sense to me that they would make all cars for NA the same whether it would be sold in the USA or Canada. I recalled that my 1998 Suzuki Sidekick also had DRLs.Woodie wrote:He probably (at least I hope so as I want this badly) is talking about a button to fool the car into thinking the e-brake is on when it's not. The point being to defeat those moronic Daytime Running Lamps. Another brilliant idea Suzuki picked up from GM and their band of brain dead engineers (lawyers).
While I agree with you that low wattage to incandescent bulbs as DRLs is not always pleasant to look at, it's actually safer. Studies have shown that driving with lights on during the day result in lower rates of head-on collisions. In fact, I have heard that in Scotland, you have to always drive with headlights on regardless of weather conditions.
What I wish Suzuki did with DRLs is to not have used the high beam bulbs, but to have used the position bulbs instead. They could of used a brighter bulb if the 5W T-10 was not bright enough. I say this because an independent bulb like the position bulb could be easily upgraded to a far better looking LED bulb (like I did for my Kizashi). The high beam bulb can also be swapped out to LEDs to make it look better as a DRL but you lose effective high beam performance. Using the position bulbs would have allowed LED usage for upgraded looks without compromising the high beam performance.
Now, many new cars simply have the dedicated row of white LEDs as DRLs.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Do you guys still have front "parker" lights as well as the DRL's? In the DRL kit I fitted (Philips Daylight 8) it said to remove the parker light bulbs as it's illegal to run DRL's and parkers. The DRL's actually dim when the parkers are switched on.
(The above would be a European law I'd imagine?)
(The above would be a European law I'd imagine?)
David
Alright, so I was able to install the deck today and it looks freaking nice.....but as it was my first install of course not everything is working properly.
The first major issue is that the power windows button on the driver side does not seem to be able to control the front windows properly. I can bring up the driver side, but only if I hold it, not with just one push. And I could not control the passenger side, I had to reach over to the passenger door to control it. Could it just be a fuse? I dont see how a radio install could mess this up.
The second problem I'm having is with the volume wheel controls. I'm using the ASWC-1 from Axxess. I could just not get it to work. I'm thinking I might not have grounded it right. Do you guys know if it's ok if I get all my ground cables, twist them together and ground them all together at the same spot?
Any help would be appreciated!
The first major issue is that the power windows button on the driver side does not seem to be able to control the front windows properly. I can bring up the driver side, but only if I hold it, not with just one push. And I could not control the passenger side, I had to reach over to the passenger door to control it. Could it just be a fuse? I dont see how a radio install could mess this up.
The second problem I'm having is with the volume wheel controls. I'm using the ASWC-1 from Axxess. I could just not get it to work. I'm thinking I might not have grounded it right. Do you guys know if it's ok if I get all my ground cables, twist them together and ground them all together at the same spot?
Any help would be appreciated!
So FYI to anyone using the ASWC-1. When you look up the instructions on the website I think the pins are backwards on the diagram. The wires you're tapping into on the factory harness are the pink wire and the pink/black wire. The pink one goes to the grey/blue and the pink/black wire goes to the ground. The unit will recognize it automatically. When you purchase the ASWC-1 there's a booklet that comes with it called Application Chart, that's where you'll find this info. I never looked at it because I assumed it would be the same stuff from online. I have an SE without the rockford system or bluetooth. Not sure if it works differently with other models.