Kizashi Club

Thank you everyone for this valuable information.
My car was also occasionally affected by this problem.
Whenever this typical clicking noise could not be heard after getting out.
The cause perhaps may not be the motor or a stiff worm gear, but in the black housing on the left of the circuit board in the photo above - probably a relay whose contact surfaces have burned out when overloaded.

I'm currently struggling to pass the 2 year tech test due to the rear brakes showing uneven partial ring wear which may be due to the handbrake cables being misadjusted if they don't have enough slack and the brake levers aren't far enough step back to reach the next notch when releasing.
As a result, the brake adjustment may not work properly.
But I still don't understand what causes this typical wearing pattern...
Does somebody has any idea?

A precautionary overhaul of the CVT gearbox, which was carried out just after 160,000km by a "specialist" for a lot of money - with an otherwise perfectly functioning gearbox, there was a ticking that got louder with increasing kilometers - went wrong a big bang:
Total loss just one day and 390km after the repair with a loud cracking noise in the gearbox.
I first had to fight with a lawyer for a proper invoice, then I was able to report the error, now probably for compensation for loss of use (approx. 2 months) and now the gearbox is leaking.
Poor Germany...

So I did exactly this and now my car won’t start, still doing the same shit and now I’m stranded and need a tow!! Am I missing something? Is there a trick to get it started???

While sitting in the driver seat open driver door. With foot off the brake , cycle start button on and off a bunch of times. You should hear steering go lock and unlock every time. Now push brake pedal and try to start. I usually find the esl is not getting continuity on a contact and by cycling it usually gets it. Many are unplugging driver door courtesy switch after getting car started. The computer wont see 'door open ' therefor not triggering esl to lock. There will be no dome light when opening driver door. Keep switch handy because even without use , the esl can still loose the continuity.

I'm starting to get the steering lock error sporadically these days too but the solution is super simple: just open the driver door and while it's open, start the engine. It works every single time for me.

KuroNekko wrote: ↑Thu May 11, 2023 5:44 pm I'm starting to get the steering lock error sporadically these days too but the solution is super simple: just open the driver door and while it's open, start the engine. It works every single time for me.

Dang... How many miles on your Kizashi now? I'm at 179k..haven't had any problems so far.

AirRideFan wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2024 9:55 am

KuroNekko wrote: ↑Thu May 11, 2023 5:44 pm I'm starting to get the steering lock error sporadically these days too but the solution is super simple: just open the driver door and while it's open, start the engine. It works every single time for me.

Dang... How many miles on your Kizashi now? I'm at 179k..haven't had any problems so far.

I am literally a few miles from hitting 130,000 miles. I don't put on that many miles because for the last five years, the majority of my commute to work was under 3 miles. I never teleworked during the pandemic but I typically don't drive as much and as far as I did compared to when I lived on the East Coast.