Kizashi OEM Mud Flaps
Ouch.....sorry to here that. I hope your wife was not harmed in any way. Even if nothing is immediately wrong, $5k damage to a truck that rear-ended her means she was subjected to a pretty significant impact even though the damage to your car is not visibly extensive. Good Luck with everything and I hope they put your car back to like new condition for you.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)Just received all the paint and supplies today required to properly spray the mud flaps I had ordered from Prescott Suzuki to match the silver (paint code ZNC) on the car.
We have a spray booth here at work, so I'll be taking advantage of that! More pics to follow as I progress (it may take a while
).
We have a spray booth here at work, so I'll be taking advantage of that! More pics to follow as I progress (it may take a while
).Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)-
jakespeeds
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2011 1:25 am
Having a mud flaps not just a car parts and accessories but a protection from mud or any flying debris as you rotate your tires while driving. Im looking to have one for my Kizashi. 
OK, weather's warmed up a bit and the shop has been at a decent temp for painting. Two weeks ago I started the process (better way late than never):
Primed fronts:
then went and did a spray sample:
...hmmm that didn't look right so I checked the touch-up paint pen and dabbed it in the center which was correct (or very close to correct)
fast forward to today (time to get paint issue resolved and shipped)....and redo spray sample over old one:
ahhh, that looks better!
Now 3 coats paint:
and 2 coats clear:
drying the rest of the afternoon, take them home tonight and hopefully get them installed this weekend.
Primed fronts:
then went and did a spray sample:
...hmmm that didn't look right so I checked the touch-up paint pen and dabbed it in the center which was correct (or very close to correct)
fast forward to today (time to get paint issue resolved and shipped)....and redo spray sample over old one:
ahhh, that looks better!
Now 3 coats paint:
and 2 coats clear:
drying the rest of the afternoon, take them home tonight and hopefully get them installed this weekend.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)After allowing the paint to harden and cure for a couple weeks now, I found some time this past Sunday to get the front guards mounted. First one (RF) took forever until I got the process worked out. Drivers side went much faster.
Right Front install:
Tools used (slightly different then instructions)
I quickly decided to bag the paper templates because they were designed to use for marking the body colored rocker behind the inner wheel-well liner. Seeing how it doesn't take into account the added thickness of the liner, I chose the old hold-it-in place-and-mark-the-holes method. Couple trys to get it where it looked right, then filled in w/ a fat sharpie.
used the small red handled awl to poke center mark through inner fender liner through to the plastic body colored rocker piece then drilled small pilot hole through rocker. It is note worthy to mention that the inner liner is more of a rubbery type plastic while the rocker is a harder material. They drill diferently so I drilled all holes independently in each.
Final holes in rocker plastic (3/8"). work your way up w/ bigger bits. Top inner fender hole...be very careful. This pic shows metal curve body tab behind rocker tab half surrounding this hole. Don't go too deep as to not damage finish of any metal in there.
final holes inside wheel well...reattached inner fender to normal position w/ fasteners and carved out the final inner liner holes w/ exacto knife using the holes in the rocker as the guide. They don't need to be perfect or pretty, as the rubber nut-sert will go in and seal/cover everything up.
Insert the nut-serts...put a mounting screw in to use as a handle, a little spit in the rubber to help it on its way. (I know, that sounds wrong!)
temporary mount the guard to mark bottom hole in rocker, use the awl to punch the hole repeat above steps to get the nutsert intalled and then follow the instructions to finish mounting the guard.
Final results are a nice snug fit. Color match is OK, not great (metalics are tough to match perfectly)...looks better than black plastic. Rear install to come when I have time and get motivated again.
Right Front install:
Tools used (slightly different then instructions)
I quickly decided to bag the paper templates because they were designed to use for marking the body colored rocker behind the inner wheel-well liner. Seeing how it doesn't take into account the added thickness of the liner, I chose the old hold-it-in place-and-mark-the-holes method. Couple trys to get it where it looked right, then filled in w/ a fat sharpie.
used the small red handled awl to poke center mark through inner fender liner through to the plastic body colored rocker piece then drilled small pilot hole through rocker. It is note worthy to mention that the inner liner is more of a rubbery type plastic while the rocker is a harder material. They drill diferently so I drilled all holes independently in each.
Final holes in rocker plastic (3/8"). work your way up w/ bigger bits. Top inner fender hole...be very careful. This pic shows metal curve body tab behind rocker tab half surrounding this hole. Don't go too deep as to not damage finish of any metal in there.
final holes inside wheel well...reattached inner fender to normal position w/ fasteners and carved out the final inner liner holes w/ exacto knife using the holes in the rocker as the guide. They don't need to be perfect or pretty, as the rubber nut-sert will go in and seal/cover everything up.
Insert the nut-serts...put a mounting screw in to use as a handle, a little spit in the rubber to help it on its way. (I know, that sounds wrong!)
temporary mount the guard to mark bottom hole in rocker, use the awl to punch the hole repeat above steps to get the nutsert intalled and then follow the instructions to finish mounting the guard.
Final results are a nice snug fit. Color match is OK, not great (metalics are tough to match perfectly)...looks better than black plastic. Rear install to come when I have time and get motivated again.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
Just a heads up I will probably split this thread later tonight if I remember... The photo part will go in the DIY, and I will include some links to the other posts mentioned above.
What year SLS? This was a 2010 GTS. The newer models have different rocker molding...is that where the problem is?Kinz88 wrote:Just an FYI they have fitment problems on my SLS due to the body moldings hope this helps
Side note, I still haven't installed the rear guards yet.
Not sure if I'm going to like the look, and I'm having a hard time bringing myself to put any holes in the car that will be very noticeable if I decide I don't like them once installed.Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)