Suzuki Kizashi Drive Cycle
Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2023 7:01 pm
Does anyone know the specific drive cycle for the Kizashi? I skimmed through the service manual but could not find it and there is no mention of it on the forum. I basically need to get my car ready for a smog inspection but the oxygen sensor is not ready yet, per the smog tech. A little bit more background:
About a week or two ago, I had a check engine light come on after a bit of stalling at idle. Using my OBDII WIFI reader and the Dash Command app, I determined it was P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1. I then cleared the code and cleaned my MAF sensor with an appropriate cleaner made for cleaning MAFs. The check engine light has not since reappeared and the car is running well. Shortly after, I took the car in for a smog inspection and it passed all tests other than the oxygen sensor being "ready". I told the mechanic about the CEL and he stated that the car needs more data for the sensor since the CEL reset so to drive it more. I've since put on more miles and returned three times but the sensor is still not ready. As of today, I put on over 200 miles since the initial test. This morning, the tech stated that while the sensor still reads "not ready", the metrics on his OBDII reader stated my car was still running too rich. However, the shop is literally a three minute drive from my house and I went there straight from home as the first drive. In essence, the engine was not fully warmed up and I read this can affect fuel mixture, running the engine a bit rich.
While the tech stated that it's possible that once the sensor is ready, it will turn on a CEL again due to faulty parts causing the rich fuel mixture, it's too early to tell. I researched the matter of getting the sensor ready and came across "drive cycles" for getting the sensor metrics ready. However, I could not find any for the Kizashi. They are apparently different among makes. For example, here's the drive cycle for a Hyundai Sonata:
Hyundai Sonata Drive Cycle
STEP 1: • Make sure check engine light is not on and that there are no stored trouble codes in the computer. Use a scan tool to check for OBD II trouble codes. Any faults founds need to be repaired first. • Start the engine. Keep the vehicle in Park. • Idle the engine for 1 1/2 minutes.
STEP 2: (Steady State Driving - Part 1) • Accelerate within 15 seconds to 50-55 mph (using 1/4 to 3/4 throttle) and keep this speed steady for 2 to 3 minutes. • Decelerate to 0 mph without braking. • Idle engine then idle in Drive for 1 to 2 minutes.
STEP 3: (Steady State Driving - Part 2) • Accelerate within 15 seconds to 50-55 mph (using 1/4 to 3/4 throttle) and keep this speed steady for 10 to 20 minutes. • Decelerate to 0 mph without braking. • Idle engine then idle in Drive for 1 to 2 minutes.
STEP 4: (Engine Stop) • The drive cycle is completed. • Turn off the engine (key in the OFF position).
I'm basically trying to get the Kizashi ready sooner by following a specific drive cycle, if I can find it. I also apparently need the fuel level to be within 3/4 to 1/4, which it is now.
Getting the car ready sooner will also help determine if I need new parts like a MAF and O2 sensor before passing smog or not. My fuel economy has been lower than normal but only as of late as it likely coincides with the CEL issues. At 126K miles, I'm happy to replace the original parts myself but I know that if I do that preemptively, it can again affect the data I need to pass smog.
About a week or two ago, I had a check engine light come on after a bit of stalling at idle. Using my OBDII WIFI reader and the Dash Command app, I determined it was P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1. I then cleared the code and cleaned my MAF sensor with an appropriate cleaner made for cleaning MAFs. The check engine light has not since reappeared and the car is running well. Shortly after, I took the car in for a smog inspection and it passed all tests other than the oxygen sensor being "ready". I told the mechanic about the CEL and he stated that the car needs more data for the sensor since the CEL reset so to drive it more. I've since put on more miles and returned three times but the sensor is still not ready. As of today, I put on over 200 miles since the initial test. This morning, the tech stated that while the sensor still reads "not ready", the metrics on his OBDII reader stated my car was still running too rich. However, the shop is literally a three minute drive from my house and I went there straight from home as the first drive. In essence, the engine was not fully warmed up and I read this can affect fuel mixture, running the engine a bit rich.
While the tech stated that it's possible that once the sensor is ready, it will turn on a CEL again due to faulty parts causing the rich fuel mixture, it's too early to tell. I researched the matter of getting the sensor ready and came across "drive cycles" for getting the sensor metrics ready. However, I could not find any for the Kizashi. They are apparently different among makes. For example, here's the drive cycle for a Hyundai Sonata:
Hyundai Sonata Drive Cycle
STEP 1: • Make sure check engine light is not on and that there are no stored trouble codes in the computer. Use a scan tool to check for OBD II trouble codes. Any faults founds need to be repaired first. • Start the engine. Keep the vehicle in Park. • Idle the engine for 1 1/2 minutes.
STEP 2: (Steady State Driving - Part 1) • Accelerate within 15 seconds to 50-55 mph (using 1/4 to 3/4 throttle) and keep this speed steady for 2 to 3 minutes. • Decelerate to 0 mph without braking. • Idle engine then idle in Drive for 1 to 2 minutes.
STEP 3: (Steady State Driving - Part 2) • Accelerate within 15 seconds to 50-55 mph (using 1/4 to 3/4 throttle) and keep this speed steady for 10 to 20 minutes. • Decelerate to 0 mph without braking. • Idle engine then idle in Drive for 1 to 2 minutes.
STEP 4: (Engine Stop) • The drive cycle is completed. • Turn off the engine (key in the OFF position).
I'm basically trying to get the Kizashi ready sooner by following a specific drive cycle, if I can find it. I also apparently need the fuel level to be within 3/4 to 1/4, which it is now.
Getting the car ready sooner will also help determine if I need new parts like a MAF and O2 sensor before passing smog or not. My fuel economy has been lower than normal but only as of late as it likely coincides with the CEL issues. At 126K miles, I'm happy to replace the original parts myself but I know that if I do that preemptively, it can again affect the data I need to pass smog.