FYI: RRM rear sway bar on sale for $199

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KuroNekko
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Woodie wrote: Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:51 am Nicely done, bootymac, you forgot to mention a 5mm allen wrench. I was a miserable failure at getting mine off yesterday. I'm beginning to fear that my car has seen some serious salt water or something. Every time I try to do something underneath, I have a horrible time trying to get the fasteners loose. Just couldn't get the end link off of the driver's side. I'm going to order new end links and then dremel it off.
I'm now in this situation for a rear end link. This past weekend, I tried to replace them but the driver side rear end link nut was seized with rust. Of course, due to the end link design, you need to hold the bolt with a 5 mm Allen while working the nut. Well, the Allen head is an utterly worthless design when it comes to corrosion and rounds off with the slightest of resistance. Given I could not get one end off (the end attached to the mount), I need to either saw off the bolt or break the nut off. I had to give up the replacement due to the lack of tools at the time and I'm currently driving with a clunk from the loose sway bar end link. Thankfully, the Moog replacement parts don't use a stupid Allen bolt and instead have a proper nut on the end link for installation and removal.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
bdleonard
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KuroNekko wrote: Tue Oct 12, 2021 11:14 pm
I'm now in this situation for a rear end link. This past weekend, I tried to replace them but the driver side rear end link nut was seized with rust. Of course, due to the end link design, you need to hold the bolt with a 5 mm Allen while working the nut. Well, the Allen head is an utterly worthless design when it comes to corrosion and rounds off with the slightest of resistance. Given I could not get one end off (the end attached to the mount), I need to either saw off the bolt or break the nut off. I had to give up the replacement due to the lack of tools at the time and I'm currently driving with a clunk from the loose sway bar end link. Thankfully, the Moog replacement parts don't use a stupid Allen bolt and instead have a proper nut on the end link for installation and removal.
Up here in the rust belt, I had to cut several. First I tried clamping the back side with vise grips, and taking the nut off with the impact, which removed a few of them. Depending on the tools you have and the access (aka: which spot is stuck) I found the most effective without damaging anything was going straight in to the end of the bolt/nut and cutting a straight slot as far as I could (dremel, angle grinder, saw, etc). It didn't need to make it all the way to splitting the nut, just far enough that the slot allowed everything to move enough to unbind. Cutting it off on the back side worked as well, but I found I was more likely to nick the arms and other bits trying that
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KuroNekko
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bdleonard wrote: Wed Oct 13, 2021 1:29 pm
KuroNekko wrote: Tue Oct 12, 2021 11:14 pm
I'm now in this situation for a rear end link. This past weekend, I tried to replace them but the driver side rear end link nut was seized with rust. Of course, due to the end link design, you need to hold the bolt with a 5 mm Allen while working the nut. Well, the Allen head is an utterly worthless design when it comes to corrosion and rounds off with the slightest of resistance. Given I could not get one end off (the end attached to the mount), I need to either saw off the bolt or break the nut off. I had to give up the replacement due to the lack of tools at the time and I'm currently driving with a clunk from the loose sway bar end link. Thankfully, the Moog replacement parts don't use a stupid Allen bolt and instead have a proper nut on the end link for installation and removal.
Up here in the rust belt, I had to cut several. First I tried clamping the back side with vise grips, and taking the nut off with the impact, which removed a few of them. Depending on the tools you have and the access (aka: which spot is stuck) I found the most effective without damaging anything was going straight in to the end of the bolt/nut and cutting a straight slot as far as I could (dremel, angle grinder, saw, etc). It didn't need to make it all the way to splitting the nut, just far enough that the slot allowed everything to move enough to unbind. Cutting it off on the back side worked as well, but I found I was more likely to nick the arms and other bits trying that
Thanks. It does appear that sawing would be a decent solution but the problem is that I neither own an appropriate tool to cut the bolt or nut nor have a vice to hold the parts properly. As for damaging things, I only care for the mount. In fact, it's the only reason the stuck nut is an issue in this case. Thankfully, my seized nut is on the side that mounts to the wheel knuckle, not the sway bar. The end link attaches to the knuckle by a mount that can be easily removed.
What I'm thinking of trying is to use a nut splitter. If I can find one that fits, it should be a good solution to break off the seized nut so I can free the mount to reuse. Thankfully, I think this is the last time I'll deal with it given the replacement Moog end links have a better design less prone to this problem because they don't rely on an Allen wrench to hold the bolt. I also no longer live in a region with much snow or moisture.

I'm currently driving the Kizashi with the rear driver side end link completely off. It was clanking around too much yesterday so I took it off. I'm just driving the car easy to commute to work so it should not be too much of an issue until I can fix it.

If I can't find a nut splitter that will fit and do the job, I'll likely just take the end link to a local mechanic or fabricator and pay them the labor to cut the part and free the mount.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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KuroNekko
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Update: After I failed to find any nut splitters at any stores including HFT, Autozone, O'Reillys, etc., I decided to revise my approach and buy a Dremel 3000 to go the cutting route. I was previously unsure about the method because I had no experience with a Dremel and didn't really know how it differed from other power tools. Now that I own one, I get it. It's like the opposite of an electric drill in that instead of low speed with high torque, it's a high speed with low torque rotary tool. I used the cutting disc it came with and cut off the seized nut and bolt to free the mount. I then got the replacement Moog end link on. One side complete.
When I attempted the rear passenger side, I found that both nuts were seized on there. Given I didn't have too much time, I decided to just soak them with PB Blaster and keep them on for the time being until I have time to work on the replacement which will likely require the Dremel again. I really wish the OE end links had a sturdy holding nut on the bolt instead of the useless Allen hole at the end. Allen bolts are just useless when corroded.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
SamirD
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KuroNekko wrote: Mon Oct 18, 2021 6:27 pm Update: After I failed to find any nut splitters at any stores including HFT, Autozone, O'Reillys, etc., I decided to revise my approach and buy a Dremel 3000 to go the cutting route. I was previously unsure about the method because I had no experience with a Dremel and didn't really know how it differed from other power tools. Now that I own one, I get it. It's like the opposite of an electric drill in that instead of low speed with high torque, it's a high speed with low torque rotary tool. I used the cutting disc it came with and cut off the seized nut and bolt to free the mount. I then got the replacement Moog end link on. One side complete.
When I attempted the rear passenger side, I found that both nuts were seized on there. Given I didn't have too much time, I decided to just soak them with PB Blaster and keep them on for the time being until I have time to work on the replacement which will likely require the Dremel again. I really wish the OE end links had a sturdy holding nut on the bolt instead of the useless Allen hole at the end. Allen bolts are just useless when corroded.
I've removed rusted catalytic converter bolts by hand with a good overnight soaking of PB Blaster. 8-) I think you've already replaced the links by now, so would be curious if they came off by hand or you had to cut them. 8-)
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KuroNekko
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SamirD wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 6:30 pm
KuroNekko wrote: Mon Oct 18, 2021 6:27 pm Update: After I failed to find any nut splitters at any stores including HFT, Autozone, O'Reillys, etc., I decided to revise my approach and buy a Dremel 3000 to go the cutting route. I was previously unsure about the method because I had no experience with a Dremel and didn't really know how it differed from other power tools. Now that I own one, I get it. It's like the opposite of an electric drill in that instead of low speed with high torque, it's a high speed with low torque rotary tool. I used the cutting disc it came with and cut off the seized nut and bolt to free the mount. I then got the replacement Moog end link on. One side complete.
When I attempted the rear passenger side, I found that both nuts were seized on there. Given I didn't have too much time, I decided to just soak them with PB Blaster and keep them on for the time being until I have time to work on the replacement which will likely require the Dremel again. I really wish the OE end links had a sturdy holding nut on the bolt instead of the useless Allen hole at the end. Allen bolts are just useless when corroded.
I've removed rusted catalytic converter bolts by hand with a good overnight soaking of PB Blaster. 8-) I think you've already replaced the links by now, so would be curious if they came off by hand or you had to cut them. 8-)
So much like the other side, the end link came off by hand on the side that connects to the sway bar. It did not for the side that connects to the mount for the knuckle. Thankfully, you can remove the mount so you can take the end link off the car to saw off the seized nut of the end link from the mount. I had to resort to using the Dremel for both end links in this manner. It's been all fixed for a few weeks now and the chassis and suspension no longer make noises. In retrospect, I wish I upgraded the end links to the Moogs when I installed the RRM sway bar years ago. They are just a lot beefier and better built than the OE end links that have a design prone to headache when corroded. I'll post pictures sometime. I have a lot of pics related to the work I recently did on my Kizashi but not much time to upload and post about them. :(
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
SamirD
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KuroNekko wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 9:39 pm
SamirD wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 6:30 pm
KuroNekko wrote: Mon Oct 18, 2021 6:27 pm Update: After I failed to find any nut splitters at any stores including HFT, Autozone, O'Reillys, etc., I decided to revise my approach and buy a Dremel 3000 to go the cutting route. I was previously unsure about the method because I had no experience with a Dremel and didn't really know how it differed from other power tools. Now that I own one, I get it. It's like the opposite of an electric drill in that instead of low speed with high torque, it's a high speed with low torque rotary tool. I used the cutting disc it came with and cut off the seized nut and bolt to free the mount. I then got the replacement Moog end link on. One side complete.
When I attempted the rear passenger side, I found that both nuts were seized on there. Given I didn't have too much time, I decided to just soak them with PB Blaster and keep them on for the time being until I have time to work on the replacement which will likely require the Dremel again. I really wish the OE end links had a sturdy holding nut on the bolt instead of the useless Allen hole at the end. Allen bolts are just useless when corroded.
I've removed rusted catalytic converter bolts by hand with a good overnight soaking of PB Blaster. 8-) I think you've already replaced the links by now, so would be curious if they came off by hand or you had to cut them. 8-)
So much like the other side, the end link came off by hand on the side that connects to the sway bar. It did not for the side that connects to the mount for the knuckle. Thankfully, you can remove the mount so you can take the end link off the car to saw off the seized nut of the end link from the mount. I had to resort to using the Dremel for both end links in this manner. It's been all fixed for a few weeks now and the chassis and suspension no longer make noises. In retrospect, I wish I upgraded the end links to the Moogs when I installed the RRM sway bar years ago. They are just a lot beefier and better built than the OE end links that have a design prone to headache when corroded. I'll post pictures sometime. I have a lot of pics related to the work I recently did on my Kizashi but not much time to upload and post about them. :(
Thank you for the update and details. :) I hate that you had to cut the other side too. Seems like your car has turned into a bit of a rust monster as ours has. :cry: I look forward to when you post the pics! I too am behind as I have to post about how any of our rear outer brake pads can just fall out. :o
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KuroNekko
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SamirD wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 9:50 pm
KuroNekko wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 9:39 pm
SamirD wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 6:30 pm I've removed rusted catalytic converter bolts by hand with a good overnight soaking of PB Blaster. 8-) I think you've already replaced the links by now, so would be curious if they came off by hand or you had to cut them. 8-)
So much like the other side, the end link came off by hand on the side that connects to the sway bar. It did not for the side that connects to the mount for the knuckle. Thankfully, you can remove the mount so you can take the end link off the car to saw off the seized nut of the end link from the mount. I had to resort to using the Dremel for both end links in this manner. It's been all fixed for a few weeks now and the chassis and suspension no longer make noises. In retrospect, I wish I upgraded the end links to the Moogs when I installed the RRM sway bar years ago. They are just a lot beefier and better built than the OE end links that have a design prone to headache when corroded. I'll post pictures sometime. I have a lot of pics related to the work I recently did on my Kizashi but not much time to upload and post about them. :(
Thank you for the update and details. :) I hate that you had to cut the other side too. Seems like your car has turned into a bit of a rust monster as ours has. :cry:
But it's not. That's the frustrating thing. While I did drive it in Maryland winters for several years, I was rather keen on hosing things off under the car and don't have much corrosion at all. I also moved to Southern California in 2017 and the climate here does not promote rust. The issue is really the poor design of the end link which relies on an Allen key to hold the bolt when you try to remove the nut. It's an absolutely worthless design with the slightest of corrosion on the Allen fitting. The Moog uses a large and robust holding nut instead, which is a far superior design. I really think the Moog end link is superior in every single way to the OE.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
SamirD
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KuroNekko wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 10:06 pm
SamirD wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 9:50 pm
KuroNekko wrote: Mon Nov 08, 2021 9:39 pm

So much like the other side, the end link came off by hand on the side that connects to the sway bar. It did not for the side that connects to the mount for the knuckle. Thankfully, you can remove the mount so you can take the end link off the car to saw off the seized nut of the end link from the mount. I had to resort to using the Dremel for both end links in this manner. It's been all fixed for a few weeks now and the chassis and suspension no longer make noises. In retrospect, I wish I upgraded the end links to the Moogs when I installed the RRM sway bar years ago. They are just a lot beefier and better built than the OE end links that have a design prone to headache when corroded. I'll post pictures sometime. I have a lot of pics related to the work I recently did on my Kizashi but not much time to upload and post about them. :(
Thank you for the update and details. :) I hate that you had to cut the other side too. Seems like your car has turned into a bit of a rust monster as ours has. :cry:
But it's not. That's the frustrating thing. While I did drive it in Maryland winters for several years, I was rather keen on hosing things off under the car and don't have much corrosion at all. I also moved to Southern California in 2017 and the climate here does not promote rust. The issue is really the poor design of the end link which relies on an Allen key to hold the bolt when you try to remove the nut. It's an absolutely worthless design with the slightest of corrosion on the Allen fitting. The Moog uses a large and robust holding nut instead, which is a far superior design. I really think the Moog end link is superior in every single way to the OE.
Ah...we didn't hose down the underside, and I really didn't consider it since there's rain almost every week here in the SE. But there is a lot of humidity and I think that's been the biggest factor. Yeah, an allen key is a strange thing to put anywhere there is a chance of dirt/corrosion--as you mentioned, just a bad design. Yeah, the picture of that Moog part was definitely a more robust design.
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Woodie
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I had to Dremel mine off when I installed the RRM bar. The car was three years old and had 16,000 miles on it.
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