I think you'll consider yourself a winner as soon as you go for a drive.Wonson92 wrote:bootymac wrote:ONE OF US. ONE OF US. ONE OF US.KuroNekko wrote:Peer pressure wins. I lose. I am ordering one.
FYI: RRM rear sway bar on sale for $199
-
newworld2004
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2011 2:30 pm
- Location: Northern VA
Woodie wrote:I ordered one, supposed to be here next week, I'll probably be putting it on next Sunday. If you want to come by and take a look, I'm cool with that.KuroNekko wrote:Anyhow, I'm still mulling this over. $50 for shipping is rather high, I feel. It's like 1/4 of the price of the product just to ship it. Maybe you Aussies are used to it, but I am not. Even for shipping cross-country (RRM is in California), I consider this rather high and I buy car parts all the time for the VW bus I am restoring. However, I may give in given most of you rave on about this rear sway bar.
how difficult is to install this? is there any DIY for this?
thx
2010 Dark Blue SLS FWD CVT
1998 Mitsubishi Montero Winter Package
1994 Soft-Top Samurai Sold
1993 Isuzu Trooper 2DR Sold
1998 Mitsubishi Montero Winter Package
1994 Soft-Top Samurai Sold
1993 Isuzu Trooper 2DR Sold
Provided the parts as it should be its a very easy install, just need some level ground really. Ramps would be best but i've done mine without any twice now, just be ready for some cramps.newworld2004 wrote:Woodie wrote:I ordered one, supposed to be here next week, I'll probably be putting it on next Sunday. If you want to come by and take a look, I'm cool with that.KuroNekko wrote:Anyhow, I'm still mulling this over. $50 for shipping is rather high, I feel. It's like 1/4 of the price of the product just to ship it. Maybe you Aussies are used to it, but I am not. Even for shipping cross-country (RRM is in California), I consider this rather high and I buy car parts all the time for the VW bus I am restoring. However, I may give in given most of you rave on about this rear sway bar.
how difficult is to install this? is there any DIY for this?
thx
2011 Premium Silver XL
Learn. Do. Break. Fix. Explore. Save. Repeat
Learn. Do. Break. Fix. Explore. Save. Repeat
Yes, very easy to swap with the vehicle reversed up on ramps. The biggest pain with the Whiteline bar was swapping over the endlinks (where they bolt to the suspension), but the RRM bar uses the stock links- so it should be easy to do using basic tools.
David
I just ordered mine today. I called before I ordered to make sure it was still available. They said of the 5 they had left, they were shipping out 3 today. I got number 4!
Also, I asked about the strut tower brace and they said they were still available on an order basis - you order it and they'll make one for you. They just dont have a stock pile anymore.
Also, I asked about the strut tower brace and they said they were still available on an order basis - you order it and they'll make one for you. They just dont have a stock pile anymore.
Twitter: @TStar_x
Function > Form
Function > Form
Mine is one of those 3 shipped today. They even called to let me know. Customer service sounds great.KizStar wrote:I just ordered mine today. I called before I ordered to make sure it was still available. They said of the 5 they had left, they were shipping out 3 today. I got number 4!
Also, I asked about the strut tower brace and they said they were still available on an order basis - you order it and they'll make one for you. They just dont have a stock pile anymore.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
I just got mine in today. I did not realize that the bar was made by Progress Technology (presumably as a RRM exclusive part).
Does anybody know the factory tightening torque specs for (separately) the rear sub-frame bolts, end links, and bracket nuts? I gave it my best guess when I was putting things together, but I like to check the torque on everything after a few days of driving and I prefer to have the factory numbers.
Does anybody know the factory tightening torque specs for (separately) the rear sub-frame bolts, end links, and bracket nuts? I gave it my best guess when I was putting things together, but I like to check the torque on everything after a few days of driving and I prefer to have the factory numbers.
I only got to zip around for 5 or 6 miles this evening, but I'm a big fan of the way it feels. Much flatter in the corners and on ramps and the like. I'll take it out for a longer more spirited drive tomorrow evening.
I'll see if I can find a service manual online. I went for 70-80 ft-lbs on the sub-frame and 20-25 ft-lbs on the end links and brackets. No matter what I want to re-torque them after about 100 miles, like any suspension component.
I'll see if I can find a service manual online. I went for 70-80 ft-lbs on the sub-frame and 20-25 ft-lbs on the end links and brackets. No matter what I want to re-torque them after about 100 miles, like any suspension component.