Kizashi Club

Over the past week, I have gotten a performance chip and I gotta say it has been the best purchase. In the future, I plan on getting a RRM cold air intake and maybe more rims.

cderek388 wrote:Over the past week, I have gotten a performance chip and I gotta say it has been the best purchase. In the future, I plan on getting a RRM cold air intake and maybe more rims.

Which chip did you get. Does it use more alot fuel

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n8dogg wrote:Hit 123456 Miles and still going!
123456 and going.png

I got a pic for you! Let me find it though.. hahah

johnhenrydale wrote:

KuroNekko wrote:I'm glad this topic is back up because I am certain at this point of around 100K miles, I need new shocks on all four corners. Years ago, there was a discussion about OE vs. the KYB shocks and struts (dampers, collectively) and whether the various Kizashi models (FWD vs. AWD vs. Kizashi Sport vs. Kizashi) had different dampers. I recall that though Suzuki part numbers were all different for the various models for the dampers, it was inconclusive as to whether the dampers were actually any different other than part number. KYB is the OEM and they are also the only mainstream aftermarket manufacturer for the Kizashi's dampers. Since that time, it's become evident to me from other people installing them and also KYB's own cross-referencing of Suzuki OE part numbers that the KYB aftermarket dampers fit any Kizashi model. This is welcomed news given the KYB aftermarket dampers cost about 1/4 of the OE dampers.

I'm planning on buying replacements soon and doing the rears myself but taking the fronts to a professional for two main reasons. The first is that the replacement struts for the front is sold as the damper only meaning the spring must be reused. I've previously replaced struts for another car with new springs pre-installed from KYB which made the job easy but the Kizashi doesn't enjoy that kind of parts availability. We only have the damper itself available from KYB. I figured I'd have to go this route anyway given my Sport springs which are 10mm lower than the standard Kizashi. The second reason is that compressing springs is a rather dangerous task that requires specialized tools. I think I'll just have a shop swap the springs for the new struts I'll provide and then after installation, have them do an alignment job.

Thanks SRN for confirming some things about the KYB aftermarket dampers that many of us were unsure of for years.

Hey Kuronekko - I'm A bit confused - what did you mean by "have a shop swap the springs for the new struts" - aren't those separate parts of the front suspension assembly? are you also replacing springs as well as struts?

Sorry for the late reply and confusing wording. I meant that I have to reuse my old springs so I'm going to take the car to a shop and provide them the new KYB struts and ask them to replace the worn struts but reuse my springs.

Just bought a full set of KYB front and rear struts & shocks myself and will be having the same thing done next week. I also figured while they had everything disassembled I should go ahead and replace the front bumpstops and boots (https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/k ... oots-sb113) as well as the front strut mounts (https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/k ... are-sm5805). I'm also going to replace all the stabilizer (sway) bar linkages front and rear while they're at it to give the Kizashi a fully new and improved ride. I did end up going with the Suzuki OEM rear bumpstops as that seemed like a very specific part fix, but everything else I went KYB. I just got tired of fishing around the forum to see if there was any scientific proof that the KYB's vs OEM Suzuki (KYB) "sport" parts make any difference in ride quality. The balance of opinions I've been able to deduce from all the commentary on here and other Kizashi forums is that the ride quality difference is either non-existent or very minimal. FYI, price total for all the parts mentioned above (+ a couple rear shock nuts and bolts came out to about 600 USD. I figure the labor will be at least 300-400 and I'll probably have a fully refreshed suspension set up for around a grand.

With the recent paint job (approx 4500, 1100 out of pocket) That's going to put the grand total I've spent on this car so far this year - with a new stereo (700), new wheels and tires (2300) , new headlights (500) , new LED headlights (200), smoked tail lights and signal lights (150) ,new shift knob (50), and a brake job (300) close to 10k, but I was very fortunate that Geico covered 75% of the paint job. These were all repairs or upgrades I would have covered at one point or another, but this just happened to be the year where they all happened in a fairly short time period. My logic was that I'm going to have this car until at LEAST 200k miles and it will continue to be my daily for the forseeable future but, at ~ 75k miles now it had accumulated enough wear and tear that I felt it was time to either get a new car or invest significantly in the continued enjoyment of this one. I may still end up going with a Tesla Model Y at some point over the next 2 years, but for now I'm still genuinely enjoying the unique look and feel of my Kizashi and, having paid off the car a while back and finally gotten a job where I can do some significant upgrades without completely breaking the bank, I figured these were all repairs that will greatly enhance my ownership and driving experience over the years to come.

Nice.

Mind you that’s 600 for struts, shocks, strut mounts, new bump stops for front and rear, and new sway bars all around. Just the shocks and struts alone were 220.


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rossirob73 wrote:

cderek388 wrote:Over the past week, I have gotten a performance chip and I gotta say it has been the best purchase. In the future, I plan on getting a RRM cold air intake and maybe more rims.

Which chip did you get. Does it use more alot fuel

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Interested to hear your experiences on this as well, what chip did you get?

Performed second CVT service at 125,000 miles...30k after initial service. Pulled pan and changed filter as well. Pulled the cooler return line to flush out the remaining old fluid, 100% all new fluid inside. Of note: my 2012 has the shallow pan of the '10 and '11 models. No shinny bits and the magnets looked pretty clean! Fluid sample is going to Black Stone for analysis.

n8dogg wrote: Fluid sample is going to Black Stone for analysis.

That ought to be an interesting report...let us know what it says.