Re: What Did You Do With Your Kizashi Today?
Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 8:11 pm
The best access to the bulbs is by removing the front bumper and removing the headlights themselves so you can adequately reach the back of the headlights for bulb access. It's a pain for what should be a simple task. This is why it's a good idea to get LED or HID bulbs because they last a lot longer while being a few times brighter than halogens. I have a write-up on the process if you want a step-by-step. Search for it in the Stickies section.
A consideration you need for LED bulbs is whether the bulb will fit inside the headlight with the cap on. The Kizashi uses a sealed headlight design so there are caps that cover the bulbs. Some LED bulbs are too big to fit inside with their fans/heat sinks. Also, not all LEDs have an optimal design to properly mimic the output pattern of a halogen bulb. This issue will create problems such as glare for others and a poor light pattern on the road. LED have improved significantly in the last few years and more properly cast an ideal light but it still might be trial and error to find an LED bulb that outputs proper light.
I currently have DDM Tuning SaberLED ProX 55W H7 LEDs in my DRL/High Beam. I went with this kit due to DDM Tuning's reputation and reviews as they are one of the originals in HID and LED kits. These were also on sale at the time and are small enough that the entire bulb and driver fits inside the headlight so I can seal the cap. The output and pattern is excellent and a significant improvement over the last cheap LED kit I installed several years ago. I also have Morimoto capacitors hooked up to them to remedy DRL PWM issues that cause flickering in DRL mode. You don't need the capacitors for low beam use as there should be no PWM.
I run HIDs in my low beams largely because I've had them since before LED kits were good enough for a pattern out of a projector lens. HID kits are also more modular so you can swap out bulbs easier and change color temp. I currently have Philips-capsule 4300K bulbs for an OE HID look. It's warmer than LED bulbs which generally are in a 6500K color temp range for a pure white light. In the world of lighting, 6500K gives off the highest lumens for a technically brightest light for longer range but can cause eye strain and color rendering inaccuracies. Neutral lights in the 4000K to 5500K range are considered better for CRI (Color Rendering Index) so your eyes can see the actual color and details easier. All of this is largely up to preference.
My headlight kits cost hundreds of dollars because I prefer quality, reliability, and longevity, especially since dealing with bulbs is such a pain with the Kizashi. I know there are much cheaper kits on Amazon but I've played around enough with kits to now prefer the premium stuff that will offer reliable performance for several years.
A consideration you need for LED bulbs is whether the bulb will fit inside the headlight with the cap on. The Kizashi uses a sealed headlight design so there are caps that cover the bulbs. Some LED bulbs are too big to fit inside with their fans/heat sinks. Also, not all LEDs have an optimal design to properly mimic the output pattern of a halogen bulb. This issue will create problems such as glare for others and a poor light pattern on the road. LED have improved significantly in the last few years and more properly cast an ideal light but it still might be trial and error to find an LED bulb that outputs proper light.
I currently have DDM Tuning SaberLED ProX 55W H7 LEDs in my DRL/High Beam. I went with this kit due to DDM Tuning's reputation and reviews as they are one of the originals in HID and LED kits. These were also on sale at the time and are small enough that the entire bulb and driver fits inside the headlight so I can seal the cap. The output and pattern is excellent and a significant improvement over the last cheap LED kit I installed several years ago. I also have Morimoto capacitors hooked up to them to remedy DRL PWM issues that cause flickering in DRL mode. You don't need the capacitors for low beam use as there should be no PWM.
I run HIDs in my low beams largely because I've had them since before LED kits were good enough for a pattern out of a projector lens. HID kits are also more modular so you can swap out bulbs easier and change color temp. I currently have Philips-capsule 4300K bulbs for an OE HID look. It's warmer than LED bulbs which generally are in a 6500K color temp range for a pure white light. In the world of lighting, 6500K gives off the highest lumens for a technically brightest light for longer range but can cause eye strain and color rendering inaccuracies. Neutral lights in the 4000K to 5500K range are considered better for CRI (Color Rendering Index) so your eyes can see the actual color and details easier. All of this is largely up to preference.
My headlight kits cost hundreds of dollars because I prefer quality, reliability, and longevity, especially since dealing with bulbs is such a pain with the Kizashi. I know there are much cheaper kits on Amazon but I've played around enough with kits to now prefer the premium stuff that will offer reliable performance for several years.
Not the one in the center of the display that would indicate tires are low (the tires were properly inflated), but after reading up on all the problem solving on here, sounds like a TPMS error light...programing or hardware issues. But before I got too deep into the weeds, I figured I'd replace the 5.5 year old battery under the hood and then go from there. Problem solved for now!