Kizashi Club

I have a 2012 Kizashi and when you drive it 7 or 8 miles it over heats. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, temperature sensor, has correct blue coolant. I have flushed the coolant system. I flushed the radiator and water ran out the bottom and out the top hoses fine. I have jacked up the front end and ran it to get any air out of it. The top hose is 210 degrees and lower hose is 65 degrees when it over heats. I have done a coolant system pressure test and it is fine, I did the combustion exhaust in coolant test and the liquid stayed bright blue. The oil is fine and no oil in coolant. So why does it over heat?

Perhaps you did replace it but you didn't mention the radiator cap. Did you replace it with a proper quality replacement, ideally the Suzuki OE part or a Denso/Toyota OE cap?
When I overheated, it was due to a failed radiator cap.

I second what KuroNekko said^^^^ Mine would overheat because the cap wasn't holding pressure.

I replace the radiator cap with a new one from Autozone. It seems to set down on it just fine. Yesterday when I test drove it and it got hot I tried to squeeze the upper and lower hose and they both were hard so I would think it has pressure in the system.

what temperature your dash show?
210 degrees is not that high to overheat the engine

cdavison wrote: ↑Fri Jan 26, 2024 6:29 am I have a 2012 Kizashi and when you drive it 7 or 8 miles it over heats. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, temperature sensor, has correct blue coolant. I have flushed the coolant system. I flushed the radiator and water ran out the bottom and out the top hoses fine. I have jacked up the front end and ran it to get any air out of it. The top hose is 210 degrees and lower hose is 65 degrees when it over heats. I have done a coolant system pressure test and it is fine, I did the combustion exhaust in coolant test and the liquid stayed bright blue. The oil is fine and no oil in coolant. So why does it over heat?

i know this is a long shot, but maybe check your radiator fans? funny thing is when i bought my kizashi i realized that one of the radiator fans was actually unplugged. i know its prob not the fix but its worth a shot :shrug:

Both fans do run when kicked on . As far at the temp guage on dask it just has the C to H and it gets in the red lines of the H. As far as the 210 is on the metal part that comes out of the head.

Do you have heat in cabin at all? Is there a sharp smell at coolant reservoir? With engine cold and rad cap in place, how long after running does top hose take to firm up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

old tech wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 2:02 pm Do you have heat in cabin at all? Is there a sharp smell at coolant reservoir? With engine cold and rad cap in place, how long after running does top hose take to firm up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, it is very hot air comeing out of the vents. Sharp smell? What do you mean? Not sure on when the hose firms up yet but if you drive it 7 to 8 miles is when it got over to the "H". I will see about how long idieling and the hose getting firm.

What I mean by a sharp smell is if you take the green cap off and take a whiff and it smells like something other than coolant than you have a problem. Sometimes its so strong it stings your nose. I am suspecting you have a problem at the head to block surfaces and that the test results on the coolant are not correct. This engine doesnt take much to end up with surface distortion. A coolant leak thats not caught soon enough, a belt tensioner that lets belt come off, or just bunches of miles and head bolts have relaxed a bit. all of these the cylinder head and block needs check with a straight edge. If there truly is no hydrocarbons then a plugged radiator [stop leak or the like]could be the issue