DIY Tire Rotation

[bootymac]

I really want to get a low profile full size jack. The only reason I haven't got one is because I probably can't take it with me when I move eventually.

I believe I mentioned this before, but get an aluminum one when the time comes. They're much lighter and easier to handle than the steel ones.

Anyhow, I believe the tire rotation pattern differs depending on whether you have AWD vs. FWD and whether the tires are uni-directional or not. I recall seeing that in the owner's manual.

Shit, you're right. I posted the wrong image above; I actually followed method C in the following picture, which is the same as what is in my 2012 AWD owner's manual. Interesting that Suzuki calls for the FWD method even on AWD models. I guess the Kizashi is mostly FWD-biased.

I also experienced tire balance issues after rotating my wheels. I can feel and hear that they are out of balance. I've got to get that remedied.

I'll keep this in mind next time I'm on the road. When did you rotate or how often did you rotate? Do you think this is because the tires were already unevenly worn?

[KuroNekko]

Interesting that Suzuki calls for the FWD method even on AWD models. I guess the Kizashi is mostly FWD-biased.

Doesn't the graphic actually show that RWD and AWD is the same while FWD is different?
I actually used the X-Pattern for my FWD, but the graphic states it's fine.

I try to rotate my tires at every oil change which is roughly every 7500 miles.
I'm not sure what is causing my wheel balance issue, but I'm thinking the weights on the wheels being swapped around will fix it. I'm not sure how the existing tire wear affects the wheel balance, but at this point, I'm not too concerned about tire wear as my Dunlops are nearing the end of their service life. I'm actually eager to get rid of them soon and try better tires.

I'll most likely get an aluminum jack from HFT when the time comes. I'm a scrawny guy so the lighter jack would be better for me. I'll get the heavy duty steel jack stands however as they actually hold up the car while working on it.

[bootymac]

Doesn't the graphic actually show that RWD and AWD is the same while FWD is different?

Yes, which is why it's strange that only the FWD method is shown in the owner's manual (the posted picture is from Tire Rack). Doubt it matters in reality since the Kizashi's iAWD is FWD biased.

I try to rotate my tires at every oil change which is roughly every 7500 miles.
I'm not sure what is causing my wheel balance issue, but I'm thinking the weights on the wheels being swapped around will fix it. I'm not sure how the existing tire wear affects the wheel balance, but at this point, I'm not too concerned about tire wear as my Dunlops are nearing the end of their service life. I'm actually eager to get rid of them soon and try better tires.

So even frequent rotations won't minimize the uneven tire wear. Great

I'll most likely get an aluminum jack from HFT when the time comes. I'm a scrawny guy so the lighter jack would be better for me. I'll get the heavy duty steel jack stands however as they actually hold up the car while working on it.

If they're all rated the same then you can't go wrong with either!

[honsonwong]

I was told by my dealer that since my kizashi is AWD, so the rotation method is left side: front to rear and rear to front and right side the same that: front to rear and rear to front. At that moment, I doubted about this method, but the dealer surely replied to me that that was the method for AWD.

[murcod]

Doesn't the iAWD system normally send all the torque to the front wheels- unless the "computer" determines (under certain conditions) that power should be directed to the rear as well?

If it does normally act as essentially a FWD, it would make sense that the FWD rotation method would be used. It would be different if there was a constant percentage of drive torque being sent to the rear wheels. Like an AWD I had years ago that had a "normal" bias of 45% front 55% rear.

(At the end of the day, as long as you rotate them somewhere else to help even the wear it probably won't make much difference.... I've always just done front to rear swaps on each side- years ago I read somewhere swapping the rotation direction could cause tread delamination. But it's obviously just a rumour as I'm sure you'd be hearing a lot more about it if it was a common occurrence!)

[Woodie]

At the end of the day, as long as you rotate them somewhere else to help even the wear it probably won't make much difference

I'm with murcod on this one, I defy you to successfully convince me of the reason why these "different" methods are appropriate for different cars. Especially A and C, c'mon does this big S on my forehead stand for stupid? As long as you stick with the same method, every tire ends up in every position eventually, what possible difference could there be between A and C?

[bootymac]

I was told by my dealer that since my kizashi is AWD, so the rotation method is left side: front to rear and rear to front and right side the same that: front to rear and rear to front. At that moment, I doubted about this method, but the dealer surely replied to me that that was the method for AWD.

That's only if the tires are directional. But any rotation is better than none I guess. Splitting hairs at this point

[murcod]

FYI (use - or ignore - the below at your own undertaking ) :

1. A 12 point 1" socket is a neat fit on the "eye" drive point on the factory jack..... So, you can use either a ratchet handle or a cordless drill/ driver and jack the vehicle up with substantially less time and effort. The supplied "handle" is just plain stupid and a PITA to use. . Note: I wouldn't suggest using a cordless impact driver .

2. You can raise the jack under the front jacking point higher than normal (but nowhere near maxxing the jack height) and lift both front and rear tyres off the ground at once. The front wheel was around 10-15cm off the ground for the rear to be lifted enough to change the tyre.

(With point 2, I'd imagine the jacking height will vary with each Kizashi model. I don't have the "Sport" suspension, however my upgraded rear swaybar may have helped?)

[bootymac]

2. You can raise the jack under the front jacking point higher than normal (but nowhere near maxxing the jack height) and lift both front and rear tyres off the ground at once. The front wheel was around 10-15cm off the ground for the rear to be lifted enough to change the tyre.

How safe is this? I thought emergency jacks can only safely support one corner at a time

[murcod]

Hence the first sentence in the post.

FYI (use - or ignore - the below at your own undertaking )

If the jack was anywhere close to being full height I wouldn't have posted about it. I was actually surprised how much higher it could have gone.

You'd obviously only want to do it on perfectly level ground and use the normal precautions when jacking - ie. don't get any part of your body under the vehicle (plus hand brake on and in gear or Park.) Put a jack stand underneath as well.