Hi guys,
I would like to have an advise. I'm on my 5th or 6th tank and my MPG is honestly around 15-16 mpg... I have a 2012 Kizashi Sport CVT transmission and I'm ONLY doing city. I know that I'm suppose to get around 22-23 in the city (maybe 19-20 at worst), but 15-16 is ridiculous. Was it the same thing for you at the beginning? Does it get better after a while? I absolutely love the car besides the poor gas mileage... Is there any trick that I can try? I did not go over 90 mph so far and I'm only running the 2 wheel drive so far! HELP ME :p Thanks in advance.
Franko
Really poor gas mileage
-
FrankoLaMoya
- Posts: 329
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 10:27 pm
- Location: Moncton
2012 Suzuki Kizashi Sport iAWD CVT ''Kaijū'' (Black pearl metallic)
Priors:
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8T 6MT ''Audini'' (Black)
1999 Audi A4 Quattro 2.8 AT (Dark green)
1984 Chevrolet Malibu 3MT with a 327 engine lol (Blue)
1996 Acura Integra 5MT (Black)
Priors:
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8T 6MT ''Audini'' (Black)
1999 Audi A4 Quattro 2.8 AT (Dark green)
1984 Chevrolet Malibu 3MT with a 327 engine lol (Blue)
1996 Acura Integra 5MT (Black)
If you are only on your 5th or 6th tank of gas, you are probably still in your break-in period for the engine. Fuel economy may get better with time. Also, have you been getting gas at the same place? If so, try going somewhere else.
Here are the main factors when it comes to fuel efficiency. In rank of effect too.
1) Driving style. Aggressive acceleration and braking really lowers fuel efficiency. Smooth and calm driving is most efficient. Driving style is the #1 factor in fuel efficiency.
2) Engine and transmission condition and maintenance. (Probably not an issue for you as your car is new.) Having the engine properly tuned and maintained is important for fuel efficiency. The components most related to fuel efficiency are the spark plugs and oxygen sensor. Also, having clean fluids will keep the engine and transmission running as smooth as possible. Synthetic fluids also lower friction and therefore should improve efficiency a little bit.
3) Excessive weight and drag. Do not store unnecessary items in your car's trunk or cabin. For the best fuel economy, keep your car as lightweight as possible. Also, remove items like roof racks, ski and bike mounts, and those stupid window-mounted flags when not in use. They create drag from wind resistance.
4) Tire pressure. Keep your tires properly inflated. Under-inflated tires create roll resistance and decrease fuel efficiency. Inflate your tires to the pressure listed on the car (not the tire) for optimum efficiency. Some believe over-inflating increases fuel efficiency, but this is at the cost of traction and tire life. Not worth it.
Here are the main factors when it comes to fuel efficiency. In rank of effect too.
1) Driving style. Aggressive acceleration and braking really lowers fuel efficiency. Smooth and calm driving is most efficient. Driving style is the #1 factor in fuel efficiency.
2) Engine and transmission condition and maintenance. (Probably not an issue for you as your car is new.) Having the engine properly tuned and maintained is important for fuel efficiency. The components most related to fuel efficiency are the spark plugs and oxygen sensor. Also, having clean fluids will keep the engine and transmission running as smooth as possible. Synthetic fluids also lower friction and therefore should improve efficiency a little bit.
3) Excessive weight and drag. Do not store unnecessary items in your car's trunk or cabin. For the best fuel economy, keep your car as lightweight as possible. Also, remove items like roof racks, ski and bike mounts, and those stupid window-mounted flags when not in use. They create drag from wind resistance.
4) Tire pressure. Keep your tires properly inflated. Under-inflated tires create roll resistance and decrease fuel efficiency. Inflate your tires to the pressure listed on the car (not the tire) for optimum efficiency. Some believe over-inflating increases fuel efficiency, but this is at the cost of traction and tire life. Not worth it.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
I am at 6500 miles. Still only getting aberage of 20 in city and at times down to 17, despite hypermiling techniques, synthetic oil, trial of fuel injector cleansor, frequent tire pressure checks. But on long highway roadtrip i get average of 30 and up to 34.
2011 Kizash SLS AWD
ipaqxman,
Did you ever reset your ECU by disconnecting the battery for like 30 minutes?
Your current MPG figures seem to be better than before. In fact, they are not that far off from EPA estimates for your model.
A SLS AWD is rated at 22 City and 29 Highway by the EPA. A lot of times, people get less than that in the city and better than that on highway.
I imagine it's because in the city, you are stuck in traffic and idling (which I doubt the EPA takes into account much at all) and in the open highway/freeway, you can cruise steadily at speeds around 55~65 MPH which maximizes fuel economy well beyond EPA figures.
Did you ever reset your ECU by disconnecting the battery for like 30 minutes?
Your current MPG figures seem to be better than before. In fact, they are not that far off from EPA estimates for your model.
A SLS AWD is rated at 22 City and 29 Highway by the EPA. A lot of times, people get less than that in the city and better than that on highway.
I imagine it's because in the city, you are stuck in traffic and idling (which I doubt the EPA takes into account much at all) and in the open highway/freeway, you can cruise steadily at speeds around 55~65 MPH which maximizes fuel economy well beyond EPA figures.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
I have not disconnected the battery since i do not know how and also just very scared some other problem may popped up. I am not idling much in the "city" near me since there is not traffic jam in this suburban environment but there are certainly lots of lights. 20 is not bad if I drove the car aggressively but the problem is I accelerate like a grandma. On the digital real time mpg estimate display, with any throttle it quickly pushes the the mpg down below 10, which I have yet to know if it's normal.
2011 Kizash SLS AWD
ipaqxman,
First of all, the live MPG meter is very static. When you step on the gas, it is supposed to go down towards 0. When I accelerate, it goes down to below 10 too. When I let off and cruise, it shoot back up to the highest level. It's just a static display to encourage smoother driving. Not exactly a spot-on meter. It is most accurate when you maintain a speed for a distance.
Given your persistent claims of subpar MPGs, I strongly recommend that you disconnect the battery to reset anything the ECU (Engine Control Unit) may have learned/set for itself. The ECU is like the brain of the car and is a microchip that processes information from sensors throughout the car, especially the engine. It is said to learn patterns and adjust itself based on driving style.
Disconnecting the battery will clear out any memory in the ECU and everything from radio presets to unwanted warning lights if they are not reoccurring issues. I have done this to clear Check Engine Lights in past cars that stem from minor issues like rough starts in cold weather.
To disconnect the battery, you need a 10mm (I think) socket or wrench. Loosen the nut on the positive (red) connection on the battery. No need to remove the nut entirely. Just loosen until the connector can be jiggled off the battery terminal. Slip the connector off and place it in a position that does not touch the battery terminals of either the positive or the negative. Simply move it out of the way.
Then just leave the car like this for a while. I recommend over 10 minutes minimum (I would do close to 30) to clear out any residual charge.
To reconnect, just do the reverse. Slip the positive connector over the positive terminal on the battery and make sure it seats properly. A little sparking is normal when you reconnect. Don't be alarmed. Hold it in place and then tighten down the nut. Make sure it is snug and won't slip off when tugged at.
Start the car and let it idle. You will notice that all the memory has cleared (mpg, trip, avg speed, radio presets). Your ECU should then have a chance to relearn driving patterns and you may see better fuel efficiency. Worth a try as it's no cost to you.
If you continue to have bad fuel efficiency, I highly suspect you have a faulty oxygen sensor as they are the sensor that has the most impact on fuel/air ratio. A faulty 02 sensor can account to up to 30% decrease in fuel economy. The front 02 sensor (almost always the culprit) is simple to replace on our cars too. If need be, I can help you through that. I have replaced many in other cars.
First of all, the live MPG meter is very static. When you step on the gas, it is supposed to go down towards 0. When I accelerate, it goes down to below 10 too. When I let off and cruise, it shoot back up to the highest level. It's just a static display to encourage smoother driving. Not exactly a spot-on meter. It is most accurate when you maintain a speed for a distance.
Given your persistent claims of subpar MPGs, I strongly recommend that you disconnect the battery to reset anything the ECU (Engine Control Unit) may have learned/set for itself. The ECU is like the brain of the car and is a microchip that processes information from sensors throughout the car, especially the engine. It is said to learn patterns and adjust itself based on driving style.
Disconnecting the battery will clear out any memory in the ECU and everything from radio presets to unwanted warning lights if they are not reoccurring issues. I have done this to clear Check Engine Lights in past cars that stem from minor issues like rough starts in cold weather.
To disconnect the battery, you need a 10mm (I think) socket or wrench. Loosen the nut on the positive (red) connection on the battery. No need to remove the nut entirely. Just loosen until the connector can be jiggled off the battery terminal. Slip the connector off and place it in a position that does not touch the battery terminals of either the positive or the negative. Simply move it out of the way.
Then just leave the car like this for a while. I recommend over 10 minutes minimum (I would do close to 30) to clear out any residual charge.
To reconnect, just do the reverse. Slip the positive connector over the positive terminal on the battery and make sure it seats properly. A little sparking is normal when you reconnect. Don't be alarmed. Hold it in place and then tighten down the nut. Make sure it is snug and won't slip off when tugged at.
Start the car and let it idle. You will notice that all the memory has cleared (mpg, trip, avg speed, radio presets). Your ECU should then have a chance to relearn driving patterns and you may see better fuel efficiency. Worth a try as it's no cost to you.
If you continue to have bad fuel efficiency, I highly suspect you have a faulty oxygen sensor as they are the sensor that has the most impact on fuel/air ratio. A faulty 02 sensor can account to up to 30% decrease in fuel economy. The front 02 sensor (almost always the culprit) is simple to replace on our cars too. If need be, I can help you through that. I have replaced many in other cars.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Hi KuroNekko,
When do you recommend resetting the ECU? In my case, I bought my Kizashi (AWD) last October and had over 400 Km already when I drove it out. I'm now at 3600 Km and can feel that it is starting to break-in nicely. The 0-60 Km/hr lag is gone.
However, I'm not satisfied with the gas mileage as I get 12.7L/100 Km (18 mpg) in city driving, mostly slow speed but less idling. It's been raining a lot these days and kept it at AWD all the time. No AC use, no other load - just driver and I drive like a "grandma".
Should I do this after my first oil change or wait till say 10,000 Km?
Thanks.
Peter
When do you recommend resetting the ECU? In my case, I bought my Kizashi (AWD) last October and had over 400 Km already when I drove it out. I'm now at 3600 Km and can feel that it is starting to break-in nicely. The 0-60 Km/hr lag is gone.
However, I'm not satisfied with the gas mileage as I get 12.7L/100 Km (18 mpg) in city driving, mostly slow speed but less idling. It's been raining a lot these days and kept it at AWD all the time. No AC use, no other load - just driver and I drive like a "grandma".
Should I do this after my first oil change or wait till say 10,000 Km?
Thanks.
Peter
pidru,
I would not recommend disconnecting the battery as a normal course of maintenance. It won't hurt the car, but I don't think it will help much in your case. To be honest, I think your MPG is not that bad for the conditions.
First of all, you were using AWD. I have a FWD 6 speed manual model so I don't know firsthand, but I imagine that using the AWD will decrease the fuel economy, especially in the city. The additional drivetrain components will create energy inefficiencies and result in greater fuel consumption. That was the main reason Suzuki offered the AWD as a button activated system instead of something permanent like a Subaru AWD.
You also were using the AWD in the rain. Rain creates some physical resistance in addition to reduced traction. This could result in decreased mpg as well. Sounds a little hard to believe, but I witnessed it myself on a cross-country road trip. I was driving a Subaru Legacy wagon through Texas. I was averaging about 30 mpg on highway in clear weather. I then drove through a rain storm for a couple of hours. The rain was the only factor that was different yet it decreased mpg to 26~27 mpg.
Lastly, you stated that you were not using the A/C, but did you use the defroster for fogged windows? The defroster actually turns on the A/C compressor in the engine as it removes moisture from the cabin. The use of the A/C compressor is what causes the engine to work harder and consume more fuel whether it's for cold air or defrosting.
Unfortunately, the Kizashi is not one of the more fuel efficient vehicles in its class. The rivals have better engine technology that gives them better fuel efficiency, but many don't offer AWD. In fact, the Kizashi has roughly the same fuel economy as the main rival with AWD which is the Subaru Legacy.
Other cars have technologies like direct injection, but there is a setback to this as well. First of all, they are not actually as efficient as originally believed. It's the reason why Hyundai and KIA are in trouble right now. They overstated the MPGs of their new D.I. engine models.
Also, many rivals are using new technologies like direct injection turbos that run on regular fuel. While it sounds very enticing, there is actually a drawback. Direct injection is known to have reliability issues after a while from fouled injectors. It's an issue Toyota saw in its research of D.I. when it developed it 15 years ago. It's the reason why Toyota has been reluctant on direct injection in their line-up. They are afraid of it compromising their reputation of reliability.
I would not be surprised if Hyundais, KIAs, etc. with D.I. turbos have engine reliability issues down the road.
I would not recommend disconnecting the battery as a normal course of maintenance. It won't hurt the car, but I don't think it will help much in your case. To be honest, I think your MPG is not that bad for the conditions.
First of all, you were using AWD. I have a FWD 6 speed manual model so I don't know firsthand, but I imagine that using the AWD will decrease the fuel economy, especially in the city. The additional drivetrain components will create energy inefficiencies and result in greater fuel consumption. That was the main reason Suzuki offered the AWD as a button activated system instead of something permanent like a Subaru AWD.
You also were using the AWD in the rain. Rain creates some physical resistance in addition to reduced traction. This could result in decreased mpg as well. Sounds a little hard to believe, but I witnessed it myself on a cross-country road trip. I was driving a Subaru Legacy wagon through Texas. I was averaging about 30 mpg on highway in clear weather. I then drove through a rain storm for a couple of hours. The rain was the only factor that was different yet it decreased mpg to 26~27 mpg.
Lastly, you stated that you were not using the A/C, but did you use the defroster for fogged windows? The defroster actually turns on the A/C compressor in the engine as it removes moisture from the cabin. The use of the A/C compressor is what causes the engine to work harder and consume more fuel whether it's for cold air or defrosting.
Unfortunately, the Kizashi is not one of the more fuel efficient vehicles in its class. The rivals have better engine technology that gives them better fuel efficiency, but many don't offer AWD. In fact, the Kizashi has roughly the same fuel economy as the main rival with AWD which is the Subaru Legacy.
Other cars have technologies like direct injection, but there is a setback to this as well. First of all, they are not actually as efficient as originally believed. It's the reason why Hyundai and KIA are in trouble right now. They overstated the MPGs of their new D.I. engine models.
Also, many rivals are using new technologies like direct injection turbos that run on regular fuel. While it sounds very enticing, there is actually a drawback. Direct injection is known to have reliability issues after a while from fouled injectors. It's an issue Toyota saw in its research of D.I. when it developed it 15 years ago. It's the reason why Toyota has been reluctant on direct injection in their line-up. They are afraid of it compromising their reputation of reliability.
I would not be surprised if Hyundais, KIAs, etc. with D.I. turbos have engine reliability issues down the road.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Thanks for the info. Now, I'm more than happier with my decision to get the Kizashi! 
The Subaru and DI vehicles you mentioned were my other choices but never bothered test driving those as the fit and finish of these cars were far below than the Kizashi and cost more too. I traded my 2009 Mitsubishi Outlander V6 XLS which I drove 2WD exclusively and I'm saving fuel expenses at least 30% just by switching. Not to mention the Kiz is much much enjoyable to drive, comfortable and fun.
The Subaru and DI vehicles you mentioned were my other choices but never bothered test driving those as the fit and finish of these cars were far below than the Kizashi and cost more too. I traded my 2009 Mitsubishi Outlander V6 XLS which I drove 2WD exclusively and I'm saving fuel expenses at least 30% just by switching. Not to mention the Kiz is much much enjoyable to drive, comfortable and fun.