Here's my issue...hopefully someone can tell me what's going on...
I am currently running an H7: Morimoto Elite HID System with relay harness. The passenger side headlight was working fine, then started intermittently coming on only does this when headlight switch is on auto. Both lights will work when switch on manually. Both grounds are bolted to unpainted surfaces on the chassis
The drivers side has never had any issues. KuroNekko i did follow your write up to install the the hids.
Passenger Side HID Issue
I don't have automatic headlights so I can't comment much on it but I think it's best to manually use the headlights with HIDs. That because HID bulbs require a warm-up time and automatic headlights work depending on sensor input, which can be sporadic at times. Basically, whenever it gets dark enough, the sensor sends the signal to turn on the lights. However, simply going under a bridge or tunnel will turn on automatic lights briefly for a few seconds and then cut them off when you're through it. While I'm not sure why your HID kit is problematic in Automatic mode, I suggest you try two different things:
1) Stop using Automatic mode for a while and see if there are any flickering issues with the manual control of the headlights.
2) Install inline capacitors and use the headlights in Auto mode. See if the capacitors stabilize both headlights.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/compo ... 7IYT6JCiFU
The ones I have are these as I got them from VLEDs, originally for the LED kit:
http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/hid- ... ap-ea.html
I installed inline capacitors for my Morimoto kit after experiencing some flickering at idle. It came about after I installed my dash camera, I think. I'm convinced that the Kizashi uses a pulsed voltage headlight system given my LED kit experimentation. I think this system compromises bulb stability and may explain why the HIDs and LEDs flicker more than other cars. Maybe it's also why the halogen H7s seem to blow out at unusually high rates. While I'm no electrical engineer, I think stabilizing the voltage is better and that's what the capacitors do. It's helped a lot for my HIDs and they haven't flickered since installing the capacitors.
1) Stop using Automatic mode for a while and see if there are any flickering issues with the manual control of the headlights.
2) Install inline capacitors and use the headlights in Auto mode. See if the capacitors stabilize both headlights.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/compo ... 7IYT6JCiFU
The ones I have are these as I got them from VLEDs, originally for the LED kit:
http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/hid- ... ap-ea.html
I installed inline capacitors for my Morimoto kit after experiencing some flickering at idle. It came about after I installed my dash camera, I think. I'm convinced that the Kizashi uses a pulsed voltage headlight system given my LED kit experimentation. I think this system compromises bulb stability and may explain why the HIDs and LEDs flicker more than other cars. Maybe it's also why the halogen H7s seem to blow out at unusually high rates. While I'm no electrical engineer, I think stabilizing the voltage is better and that's what the capacitors do. It's helped a lot for my HIDs and they haven't flickered since installing the capacitors.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
I had similar issues with my driver's side with the same kit, then eventually there would be instances where it wouldn't turn on in manual mode either. I tried to isolate the problem by swapping components from one side to the other until the problem switched sides. Started with the ballasts, and it didn't act up for 6 weeks. Then I swapped the igniters and it never happened again. This was 6 months ago. It will be interesting to see what happens when it gets cold again though, since that's when it started acting up for me.
Black 2011 Sport SLS AWD