Coolant loss!

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Ronzuki
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~tc~ wrote:First thing is if there is air trapped in the system and if it was really full in the first place.

Park the car pointing up hill - you want to make sure the overflow tank is the highest point - and let the car run with the cap off the overflow tank. Make sure it's warmed up and the thermostat is open, with the heater on full blast. Check the level in the overflow does not go empty. If it does, add more.

Turn off the car and Let it completely cool down, and then make sure the overflow bottle is within the lines - add or drain as necessary.

It may take a couple times to get all the air out
Sounds to me like you've owned a Jeep 4.0l I6... That's SOP after draining the system in those things. Been there, done it. It's a multi-step process to get it done right.

To the OP, I too recommend not messing with it any further and get it back to the dealer under warranty. It's far too new to be experiencing issues such as this.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
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amoows
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Thanks again for all the answers.
If he was truly losing this much, there would be obvious evidence.
Well, based on my estimation, I have lost almost 500 mL. Given the 6.6 L capacity of Radiator + coolant reservoir, I'd say I am pretty sure that there are no leaks or overheating. Moreover, I haven't got evidence of any kind that suggests something is faulty, unless it is bad/wrong/worn gasket which is quite unlikely!
Given how new your Kizashi is, I wouldn't be touching it any further. Take it straight back to the dealer.
Well, I am reluctant to be honest to take the car to the dealer (unless it gets serious) because not it is inconvenient and I would have to take time off work but also since there are not many Kizashis in Iran (only 250 at the most), they probably cannot figure it out and will not acknowledge the issue!

My conclusion up to know AND hopefully it's something as simple as this: when the car gets to operating temperature, the radiator pushing the coolant out of the system and that 'excess' coolant will just be pushed out of the reservoir tank when the system expands which in my case goes on top of radiator fans through the little hole on the very top of the tank.
Can you just confirm that there is a small hole on top of the reservoir solely for this purpose?
I am still trying to find some free time and perform the multi-step process that ~tc~ has suggested. ;)
murcod
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Keep in mind that all modern vehicles have a "drip tray" built into the plastic cover under the engine. It's designed to stop oil leaks from dripping onto the road, but could also catch a significant amount of coolant before it dripped out underneath the vehicle. There's usually an absorbent pad on the tray to catch fluids.

So, if there did happen to be a slow leak, it's quite feasible that there would be no drips. The coolant could also be evaporating from the tray in between drives.
David
murcod
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PS: Here's the Suzuki Workshop manual's procedure for coolant change:
coolant change.pdf
(46.53 KiB) Downloaded 2749 times
There is no "special" bleeding procedure required.
David
~tc~
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murcod wrote:PS: Here's the Suzuki Workshop manual's procedure for coolant change:
coolant change.pdf
Linky no worky (for me, on iPad)
murcod wrote:There is no "special" bleeding procedure required.
... And perhaps why the OP is having a problem :)
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amoows
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pictures taken from my car

1st:small hole on the very top of the coolant reservoir
Image

2nd: closer look
Image
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KuroNekko
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That hole you see is the boil-over relief outlet. When the coolant boils, that is were it can escape out of. Nearly all cooling systems with an overflow reservoir have this. Some have hoses, but they merely go downwards and have an opening. These holes are always located at the top of the tank.

While I'm not sure, they may also act as air bleeders. The reason why I think this is because cars that have a pressurized reservoir tank (Mazdas, Fords, and many GMs) don't have radiator caps. You fill the coolant via the pressurized coolant reservoir. They have air bleeder valves specifically designed to purge the air from the coolant system once you add coolant.

I have not seen many traditional cooling system with radiator caps have these bleeder valves as the radiator cap opening is typically used to bleed air. I believe the overflow tank relief hole can also purge the air if it makes it to the overflow reservoir.

After each drive, check the coolant in the overflow tank right after you park.
Also, when adding coolant, add it directly to the radiator if it's low, not the overflow tank.
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KuroNekko
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murcod wrote:Keep in mind that all modern vehicles have a "drip tray" built into the plastic cover under the engine. It's designed to stop oil leaks from dripping onto the road, but could also catch a significant amount of coolant before it dripped out underneath the vehicle. There's usually an absorbent pad on the tray to catch fluids.

So, if there did happen to be a slow leak, it's quite feasible that there would be no drips. The coolant could also be evaporating from the tray in between drives.
These are actually for aerodynamics and noise reduction. They serve as drip catchers, but the intended purpose is for improving aerodynamics under the car for improved fuel efficiency.
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
murcod
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KuroNekko wrote:
murcod wrote:Keep in mind that all modern vehicles have a "drip tray" built into the plastic cover under the engine. It's designed to stop oil leaks from dripping onto the road, but could also catch a significant amount of coolant before it dripped out underneath the vehicle. There's usually an absorbent pad on the tray to catch fluids.

So, if there did happen to be a slow leak, it's quite feasible that there would be no drips. The coolant could also be evaporating from the tray in between drives.
These are actually for aerodynamics and noise reduction. They serve as drip catchers, but the intended purpose is for improving aerodynamics under the car for improved fuel efficiency.
How's that even remotely relevant to coolant being lost? :?
David
murcod
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KuroNekko wrote:That hole you see is the boil-over relief outlet. When the coolant boils, that is were it can escape out of. Nearly all cooling systems with an overflow reservoir have this. Some have hoses, but they merely go downwards and have an opening. These holes are always located at the top of the tank.

While I'm not sure, they may also act as air bleeders. The reason why I think this is because cars that have a pressurized reservoir tank (Mazdas, Fords, and many GMs) don't have radiator caps. You fill the coolant via the pressurized coolant reservoir. They have air bleeder valves specifically designed to purge the air from the coolant system once you add coolant.

I have not seen many traditional cooling system with radiator caps have these bleeder valves as the radiator cap opening is typically used to bleed air. I believe the overflow tank relief hole can also purge the air if it makes it to the overflow reservoir.

After each drive, check the coolant in the overflow tank right after you park.
Also, when adding coolant, add it directly to the radiator if it's low, not the overflow tank.
To keep it simple, lets just stick to the Kizashi. ;)
The coolant recovery system is a standard system, which allows part of coolant to flow from the radiator into the coolant reservoir when it is expanded by heat. When the cooling system cools down, the coolant in the coolant reservoir is drawn back into the radiator.
So, the engine cooling system and radiator are pressurised, the overflow coolant reservoir isn't. There will be an overflow hole in the reservoir, but coolant will only be expelled from that hole when there is something wrong with the cooling system (it could be as simple as it being overfilled.)

Coolant level check and top up:
Coolant Level Check
WARNING:
To avoid getting burned, do not remove radiator cap while engine and radiator are still hot. Scalding fluid and steam can gush out under pressure if cap is taken off too soon.
When engine is cool, check coolant level in reservoir (1).
Normal coolant level should be between FULL mark (2) and LOW mark (3) on reservoir (1).
If coolant level is below LOW mark (3), remove reservoir cap (4) and add proper coolant to reservoir to bring coolant level up to FULL mark (2).
It is not necessary to remove radiator cap to check coolant level.
You should be checking the reservoir level only after the vehicle engine has completely cooled - this will take a long time. Best to leave it over night. That will allow for the engine coolant to contract- sucking back into the engine any coolant that has overflowed due to expansion with heat. It's a waste of time checking the reservoir level when the engine has just been stopped- unless you're purely looking for over flowing or bubbles entering the reservoir from the radiator overflow.

Amoows should also never need to remove the radiator cap to top up the engine coolant. In a Kizashi, any air in the engine cooling system will bleed out through the reservoir- with the natural expansion/ contraction cycle of the coolant. The coolant expanding will force any air, past the pressurised radiator cap, into the reservoir. When the engine cools, the reservoir is designed to only allow coolant to return to the engine (providing the level is kept between the high and low markers.)

So, continually getting air in the system- or the coolant level in the reservoir always requires top ups- indicates a problem..... It could be something simple like the radiator cap not being done up properly (or a deteriorated seal letting air in during the cooling cycle) to something more serious like a coolant hose leaking or head gasket leak!
David
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